Uhm…I just noticed that i can move the bell of my 6374 Motor up and down a bit if its in a certain orientation. (Logo facing up for example)
You can hear it sorta clicking (sound is a bit deep because i pressed the phone against the Motor mount.
where do i buy a reverse mount motors bash guard, like a aluminium cage that goes around the motors to protect them, going on TB trucks
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awesome, now i also need a metal piece to go across to act like a deer splitter
Its a maytech dual 4.12 VESC, eswitch is completely fried so I leave the connections open. Just wondering if its safe to plug my battery back into it and/or replace any burnt fets or drvs
@xsynatic Have you tried tightening down those bolts
@onebluesummer I can make a 3d cover that acts as a motor cover/
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Only way you can really hurt your battery is by having it short for an extended period of time so as long as you make sure it’s easy to disconnect and don’t have continuity between +/- before hooking up the battery then the battery itself (cells) will be pretty safe. Regarding replacing MOSFETs or DRV chip you can certainly try but if you don’t have much experience with reworking SMD components (me) then it may not work out. Personally I use a bench power supply (about $80) that I can set the output voltage (up to 35V) and can limit the current, so if I know the electronics take less than half an amp to run I can tell it to cut off at half an amp and if it is locked at half an amp I know the circuit is drawing more than I expect and can cut things off to not further fry things (if you go straight off of battery or BMS into a short then it will fry whatever the short is going through and will be damaging the battery cells, the bench power supply stop all of that but not worth it for just one thing unless you plan to use in the future (me)).
ah yes! looks like @mishrasubhransu has one he made too https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3392881
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Holy cow, that did it! Thanks! I noticed it mid ride after checking how hot my Motors were. Which Screws do i have to remove so i can remove the bell for battle hardening? The big ones i just tightened going to the shaft or the small ones on the outside?
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@xsynatic if you purchased it recently. They are already battle hardened. But otherwise, you would just need to remove the cir-clip on the front of the motor and then separate the front of the motor/stator from the bell/end of motor/motor can.
Gotcha. Mine are from late last year.
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To change motors from sensorless to sensored mode do you need to run motor config in the vesc tool?
Or plugging in the sensors will work automatically?
Pretty sure you need to change to sensored or hybrid mode instead of sensorless, think detection/calibration is necessary too since hall sensor position/order can be changed.
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After anything that isnt related to the main power cable or a BT module, motor detection should be done to help keep your vesc alive as long as possible.
^ Hear-say, I just remember seeing it once from someone reputable… Cant put my finger on who it was now
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I have should have both my motors sensored but after a motor test using the tool, it says that one of them is unsensored, I’ve checked my sensors cables again and when I directly use my remote on it it isn’t detecting it as sensored, so it’s better if I just do that test again then.
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If its not getting the sensors from a motor you have plugged in, you will need to either replug the connectors to make it show up, or fiddle with the wires and make sure the connection is actually good.
Sometimes the PCB of the sensor is faulty and it never shows the values out of the factory, some break over time, and some remain fine for the entire life of the motor.
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Does anyone kind enough to share Vesc tool apk for fw 3.58. (Vesc 1.14)
you can try looking through here…
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These are windows and macos vesc tools. It doesn’t include the app (APK file for android). Thanks tho
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