Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics Esk8 Mechanics
#401

So they’ll start making focboxes again?

#402

This the noob question thread whats that supposed to mean?

#403

Shore durometer is a scientific measurement of softness (or indenter depth relative to force applied).

The lower numbers are going to be softer and more comfortable, but wear faster.
The higher numbers are going to be easier to slide and last longer, but be less comfortable.

Generally on esk8 we want wheels in the 74A to 78A range. Lower for smaller or thinner. Higher for bigger or deeper. Not very slideable.

1 Like
#404

77a + 3 is 80a

80a + 3 is 83a

The difference between 77, 80 and 83 is 3

8 Likes
#405

wow

never thought i’d be played so hard

3 Likes
#406

Welcome to internet my friend. Lol

5 Likes
#407

Maybe… I am willing to test a direct drive and use the wheels of my own choice.
I think the most important prerequisite is get close to the community again. They are promising things they do not commit. They do not listen to us. They hide problems under the carpet instead of solving them. They are muting those who point the problems…

3 Likes
#408

thanks… glad to be here :wink:

1 Like
#409

That’s true — but even that doesn’t matter to me if they don’t make electric longboards with 4 longboard wheels, and don’t make ESCs that aren’t bundled into a double package with extra stuff.

#410

Is the difference in durability really that noticeable?

1 Like
#411

This is a 74A wheel from ABEC11

20180718_000241%20(copy)
20180718_000241 (copy).jpg1969×2328 2.11 MB

1 Like
#412

I agree …the unity is actually duality. They do not offer singles and it is not reliable right now.

1 Like
#413

How long was that ridden? I searched the boosted stealth durometer (the only board I have ATM) and its 78a but haven’t noticed any wearing (except for the sides splintering)

#414

About 1000 miles (1609km)

#415

Durometer isn’t the only factor determining the lifespan and chunk-resistance of a wheel. Mechanical design, and the exact formulation of the urethane used both have dramatic effects as well - a knockoff Chinese 100mm wheel will be less comfortable and more prone to chunking (or more skiddy) than a 100mm Boa wheel of same durometer. Quality wheel makers spend a LOT of time and effort perfecting their designs and recipes.

4 Likes
#416

why do people hate enertion?
In my case i hate that they hype so hard and don’t deliver :triumph: i hate their unspoken kickstarter business policy and i hate that they’ve got my$. But it could’ve been :heart_eyes: if they did whats right.

2 Likes
#417

image

7 Likes
#418

@skunk lolz
@Astro it depends on preference. The lower numbers are softer and the higher the numbers are more close the the hardness of a brick.
Softer feels more smooth while hard feels more “bumpy” and the ability to slide is easier at lower speeds.

2 Likes
#419

@MysticalDork
@BCoad
@City-Blade-101

Ahh I see. Thanks for the input… As I don’t plan on sliding, i’ll probably stick to the lower durometer of the caguamas, not to mention I love the blue color :stuck_out_tongue:

1 Like
#420

I’m thinking of parallel connecting my Lipo’s (unused, same chem, capacity and voltages) to be able to charge and discharge my 12s2p without swapping the parallel groups within a ride.

However, I feel that it’s tricky to do (sudden balancing might be too much to handle for the batteries/balance wires). I could use supertiny fuses that are lower rating than the balancing cables and battery when I connect the p-groups for the first time.

Is this a stupid idea?

Cheers!