Hi, I am building an electric skateboard for the first time. I have experience with high speeds on longboards. Here is probably the parts that I will use.
• Deck: landyachtz 9 two 5
• Remote: flipsky vx1
• Vesc: flipsky 6.6
• Motor (2): TB 6374 190kv, not sure!
• Mechanical kit: TB dual motor kit with 110mm wheels and 218mm trucks.
• Battery: TB 12s4p • Power switch: flipsky
Everything about: 1300$
I have some questions:
Should I change any parts? Do I need anything else for the board to work like some sort of connectors?
Should I get the flipsky 6.6, flipsky 6.6 mini or 4.20 plus? What is the difference between them?
Should I switch the motors to TB’s new direct drives? Will it have more torque? Speed? Are they worth getting over dual 6374?
If I get dual 6374 what motor should I get I know that the sk3 6374 190kv motor and TB 6374 190kv fit on the 218mm trucks. And the SK8 192kv barely fit the trucks. But the sk3 aren’t sensored, is it important to have a sensored motor?
This picture shows that the SK8 barely fit. Is that a problem, couse the SK8- and TB motor is sensored. But the SK8 motor is cheaper. Can I get the SK8?
I wouldn’t use the flipsky power switches, just because I hear that they blow out & you can use a loopkey for 1/10th of the price, and is VERY reliable.
You’d need bullet connectors for the esc, sensor adaptor cables (if you’re going with the tb), canbus if you’re doing single 6.6s, and xt connectors for the esc.
Boardnamics also has some nice cnc trucks with mounts for a great price. If you’re not buying now, he’s also working on pulleys and such too for a full dive train.
TB 12s4p packs are double stack, keep clearance in mind too. TB is also releasing a shit ton of new stuff keep look for that.
I’ve been using the flipsky 6.6 plus with great success
If you want direct drives, then those are for you. Keep in mind they are locked to a 1:1 gearing. For that reason I like setups where the gearing is customizable.
If sensored starts are what you need then sure. Running uncensored requires a tiny bit of rolling momentum (i.e kickpush) before the motors start going as they cog.
If they fit then they fit. Torqueboards is a well-known vendor so I’d be more inclined to buy his stuff.
EDIT: and expect to spend more than your budget. good luck
what’s best enclosure or deck? in terms of protecting the battery from flex, vibration…etc. I get a better fit when i mount to the enclosure (split enclosure) but it seems more secure mounted to the deck with a really tight fit (i wonder if it’s to tight sometimes)
You can also look at the Haggy drive system which is a really good price since it comes with mounts, motors, trucks, wheels.
and cheaper shipping wise since it is all from the same shop and free shipping.
Yeah those are good.
The difference between fake and real connectors in that the real ones are made of nylon so that they don’t melt when being soldered.
Hobby king has has real ones but they take a long time to ship so since you are in the EU look at these. from @ EboardSolutions
They do melt a bit – you need to solder while male and female are connected, this keeps the pins perfectly aligned. A spare one, anyway. Don’t have the circuit live while soldering.
Amass brand are pennies more expensive than generic and at least twice as good. The cheap ones never feel like they make a good connection or they are super tight and hard to even plug in
