Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

I’ve experienced the same thing for climbing hills. Higher kv is typically better (to a certain point) as you can easily get momentum when you’re in the middle of an uphill climb.

With low kv, you get low rpm which makes it harder for the wheel to spin going uphill and you can easily burn out a motor.

So all torque setup is usually pretty bad. Somewhere in the middle is best. Vedder’s original post is a good middle ground.

Your comparing a geared drive to a 1:1 gearing ratio again?

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@b264 what’s your working theory for why it’s the case? the high kv motor with gear reduction will have a higher angular speed (be turning faster) than a low kv motor optimized for 1:1 at the same low ground speed… resulting in more commutations per second… so does the high kv motor end up with a more usable BEMF signal for commutation at a lower ground speed as a result (assuming proper gearing)? (resulting in smoother acceleration from closer to standstill?)

i think with sensors both high or low kv should be equivalent when starting from a dead stop assuming proper gearing. my sensored boosted board does forward or reverse with ease from a dead stop but its beside the point. i think this start/reverse from dead stop capability will come in handy once I hybridize it with my hummie hubs… the hubs should give me plenty of torque and thrust up to 30-32mph and the loss of thrust resulting from changing from 80mm to 120mm tires on the boosted motors to get them up to 30mph will be supplemented by the added thrust from the hubs, and I should end up with quite a bit more thrust than just a set of hummie hubs alone and almost certainly more efficiency for the same acceleration as well.

Does anyone have both trampa spring trucks AND mbs with shockblocks?
I want to know if matrix2 hangar fits trampa baseplate

@Andy87 could help. If I know it right, it has the same bolt pattern.

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@Mainflow I want to see if someone (mainly me) can transfer mbs hangar with shockblocks and wedge onto a trampa (spring version) baseplate. I’ll be getting an mbs but itll come with the nylon one. If I can recycle my trampa baseplate towards it, I’ll be golden :slight_smile:

This is where I live.

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No that doesn’t work. Those are two totally different systems.

For what reasons?

In building quad copters we call them "smoke stoppers", but build them with a light bulb as the fuse… slow blow 2 amp fuses are not predictable in the amount of smoke they allow to escape if you fucked something up!

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Your shock blocks will not hold with the trampa base plate.
Dimension should be different too, but still lay in bed like lazy ass and not going to measure it out now :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Maybe you’re right about dimensions. But that wedge is only screwed in so I could add to the trampa baseplate

My answer was based on your first comment.
I assumed you don’t have metal base plates now that’s why you want to use the trampa base plate. The nylon base plate does not have the screwed in angle plate.

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Oh…damn…well…guess I’m slightly fucked there. I’ll have to make one off measurements like everytime something shiny needs to be done on my board :crazy_face:
Now I just need to find out if everything else could work

Just get the metal base plate than?

I’m getting a busted threads one from an old nylon batch.

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Shipping, import and taxes to Canada aren’t worth it

Edit: also just checked prices and just the baseplate combined with all the taxes and fee I’ll be getting, itll be more expensive than the hangar itself

Maybe someone in Canada has one left over?
I had a unity shipped with a Maxiletter between ikea catalogs without taxes to norway.

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Thanks for the help but I dont want to spend more money. I’ll stick to my DIY home made solutions :slight_smile: if it doesnt work, I’ll stick to the nylon baseplate

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@Flasher

There is hope with some diy effort

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