Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

So your charge and loopkey are both male xt90’s?

for clarity. A male xt 90 is the one with the pins not the holes even though the female goes inside the male over all

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Battery is female xt90, charging port is female xt90, using a antispark button

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I meant female, gets confusing

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No loopkey then? Good.

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Yup, I was going to install one but this antispark button is alive after 300 miles somehow

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What is it to have done this magical thing?

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I have no clue, it’s mboard’s too, lol

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Its a luna. Not a bad thing but prone to still fail. Luna switches are the most reliable of a flawed design but will always fail in the open position because I have killed 8. They are the only switch I have used that last over 3 months of continuous use. Never will it fail closed and fuck up your life. You just won’t be able to turn off your board and @DerelictRobot will attest thats not a bad thing

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It’s been treating me well, and I’ve put it through a lot already. I’ve jumped curves with this thing and it’s not broken just yet. We will see I guess

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Does anyone have the app apk and pc software for this? I have msg’ed the seller on AliExpress and currently waiting for them to reply. They are supposed to email me the software once I received it per their item description.

US $6.28 14%OFF | 12S Li ion Battery Smart BMS with 20A 30A 40A 60A constant discharge current for 50.4V lithium e-bike bluetooth PCB
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/tB4Ttu3Q

Edit:
Found it. Here is the link:

https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/smart-bms-software-download/

A little question off topic.
I have an Invacare Colibri from my Grandpa. The batteries a now super dead after 5 years of use haha. I hardly does 50m lol. I slightly, oh ever slightly modified it so it can pull trailers…


Now I have just two questions.
1- Is there any way to make the thing go faster? I could not find anything on google about it.
I think there is a speed limiter. I can send photos of it if you need.

2- Should i just get the same replacements batteries (this is the lynx which is 14 Ah but i think is should be alright dimesion wise) ?
Or Would you guys suggest a better battery combination that costs less than 150euros?

It all depends on how involved of a project you want it to be.

Easiest would just to buy two new SLA batteries of appropriate size and type and call it good.

You could swap to a lithium battery to slightly increase the voltage and possibly speed, as well as range (li-ion is much more energy-dense than lead-acid).

Or for ultimate modding and performance enhancement shenanigans you could do a controller and/or motor swap along with an upgraded battery. Vesc hardware does support brushed motors, so you wouldn’t necessarily have to convert to BLDC.

These are all speculation though. To give any more specific advice we’d need more info about what’s in it currently - pictures, datasheets, and/or documentation on the internals.

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Not very involved financially. Just wondering what little mods i can do to make this thing more awesome. I can not find any info on the esc at all. Will detailed photos of the esc and other electronics help?
Also is it apropriete to create a new thread for this since it is not eskate related?
Thanks

If it were me and I had the same financial constraints, I’d just swap from lead acid to li-ion (scooter/ebike battery) of matching voltage and call it good. Doesn’t have to be a very skookum battery ala esk8 because this thing is only gonna draw ~200w anyway, so cheap chinese or consumer-grade low-discharge cells like 26F will be fine - no need for 30Qs.

Guessing from the limited information in the datasheet it looks like the scooter uses two 12Ah or 18Ah 12v sealed lead acid batteries, probably wired in series. A 6S or 7S li-ion pack of 6-8p (assuming ~2600mah cells, typical of laptops and the like) will give you equal or better range at the same voltage.

You’d obviously need to sort out a BMS and a charging solution, but it should be pretty straightforward and cheap.

As for a thread, I dunno. I’ll avoid stepping on any admin/mod toes here.

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That looks 22AWG or 20AWG just from eyeballing, probably 22AWG

Make sure all the strands come out the end though and you don’t break half of them off doing the stripping.

My old trick for reading small things is to take a clear photograph of it, then use the computer to zoom in on the photo :smirk:

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It won’t hurt if a wire is bigger than it needs to be, but it’s just heavier and more expensive and more difficult to solder.

Smaller is bad though…

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@b264

Arent these the chargers you like?

https://metro-board.com/e-skate-shop/fast-charger-for-slim-lithium-battery-4-amp/

maybe ask this guys…they can probalby help :rofl:

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I just bought one.