Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Looks like it was an XT-60 yah? Have seen/heard there are fakes out there for those on printers that have started on :fire:. The PCB gunk looks like flux that wasn’t cleaned off with alcohol to me but I’m not a PCB expert either so someone else may have an idea.

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That’s better [than the one I linked] in that it has an 80%, 90%, 100% selector – but worse in that it has a fan and is probably noisy.

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Those look like the ones that break right away.

It’s really not that noisy, I don’t hear it when Im charging in my living room watching TV.

It doesn’t matter whether we hear it – only if the noise annoys the girlfriend/wife/significant other/mom figure. :smirk:

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I’ve come across XT connectors where the wires were spot welded to the bullets, rather than soldered. Dunno if those are that way, but I certainly won’t trust them.

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Yes they are man, I don’t know Jack squat about soldering or electrical in any form which is why I brought it here . But looks to be some sort of bad solder job it literally fused the male and female connectors together and was enough heat where the positive just fell right off of the connector. I’ve placed an order for 2 more and I’ve got the other dual ESC still but the burnt areas on the esc make me nervous

I actually got the advanced that is the adjustable Amps and it is awesome. Definitely worth the extra money

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guys I know this has probably been answered on the old forum but I dont want to go there.

How do I fill holes in the deck when I change enclosures to a different size? Some kind of epoxy?

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maybe wax which carpenters use for little scratches. It is also resistant to paint.https://www.amazon.de/Hartwachs-Schmelzer-Reparatur-Arbeitsplatten-OberflÀchen/dp/B01ET4Y1LG/ref=asc_df_B01ET4Y1LG/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309944235022&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2701095100716967958&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9068115&hvtargid=pla-706998777830&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62379242075&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309944235022&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2701095100716967958&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9068115&hvtargid=pla-706998777830

it is easy to apply with a common lighter and also easy to get a nice smooth surface if you use silk stockings from your GF for final polish.

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Wood filler, epoxy, sawdust mixed with wood glue any of those should work.

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so true, dude :wink:

JB Weld 8265-S Original can be sanded, painted, and drilled – if mixed and used correctly

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If mixed and used incorrectly it can be juiced, peeled, and squashed.

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Yah my best guess is one of the metal connectors didn’t have a very good solder connection and so was a high resistance point or maybe just bad contact between two sides of the plug again making high electrical resistance point where heat built up. Once one connector starts melting the plastic housing if it contacts the other connector then it’s a straight short and will quickly melt everything around it. Regarding the board I think you can clean that off with some isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol if it is just dirty flux but flux left on board after assembly can corrode the PCB too (soldering thread covers this in some more detail) if those are actually burns I definitely wouldn’t trust it.

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Do you think a blowdryer can put out enough heat to mold a psychotiller enclosure?

or a curling iron? looking through the lady’s tools before having to buy a heatgun


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No, but a heatgun does. Though I wouldn’t recommend doing it that way. Why not buy one from him? The heatgun will cost almost what the enclosure does.

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oh I did order one (knuckles jet spud)! I just thought I would want to form the edges to my deck and I thought I’m wondering if a blowdryer or curling iron will work before buying the heatgun

I’m not sure a blowdryer gets hot enough. We can wait for someone else to chime in.

I can say, once you get it “good”, don’t try to get it “perfect” or you will end up screwing it up. Stop once it fits.

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