ah got it. Belts are fine. No cuts, broken teeth or anything that shouldnât be there.
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I just used the ack monitor for the first time. Does anyone know if the wh/km number is for one motor or both total?
Also I left the app (running in background) and went back in. Lost the trip on the map 
do I have to record video to keep it?
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Should be the total. 12 Wh/Km is pretty much textbook for a standard esk8 with urethane wheels.
I dunno about the map thing though. Iâve never used the Ack app.
So I was plugging some numbers into the calc and comparing 12s2p to a 6s4p, seems like they would really give the same range on identical setups except the 12s would have a higher top speed⌠so my question is in the real world since the 6s goes slower would it actually have a longer range?
Going slower gives it a bigger range, but higher electrical losses per watt give it a smaller range. For the same number of cells, itâs the same amount of watt*hours, but going slower loses less energy to friction. However, running a higher voltage and less current for the same number of watts gives less electrical losses and waste heat. Also, heat begets more heat. When it gets hotter, its resistance increases, which makes it hotterâŚ
You want the 12S2P. Although a 10S3P is way better if youâre using ESCs that contain DRV8302 chips 
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WaitâŚ12Wh/km with urethane is a textbook stat? According to metr i have that with my dual belt, 8Inch pneumatics.
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UmmâŚIâm using 7" innovas
Also I dont like the words âstandardâ esk8âŚthis is DIY after all 
Just picked up a raptor 2 for super cheap, seems in excellent condition, but battery indicator always shows 100%⌠anyone got any ideas on why?
6s vs 12s, the efficiency in the motor is the same for the same acceleration or constant speed, but the 6s canât have the same top speed. this is because for the same acceleration or constant speed with either system it takes the same # of motor amps, and the same # of motor amps at the same rpm equates to the same electrical watts and same wh per km in the motor. the only difference is the battery voltage is reduced by a greater percentage to the same pulse width modulated effective voltage sent to the motor in both systems for the same acceleration or constant speed.
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For Flipsky Dual FSESC 6.6 plus, does the K need to be wired to the power switch? Or If the power button only has + and a - I can just ignore the K port.
More so what is the K even used for?
Also another question, all my battery P groups are 4.06v-4.07v, one P group is around 4.13v-4.14v, would this large of a voltage difference prevent the battery from fully charging? How do I bring the voltage down a little bit from the 1 P group? I have a BMS.
The charger would be charging then when the battery would get above 49v it would stop, and drop back down around mid 49v, nothing above 50v while charging. Must be the P group?
Well then I dunno. You might have the holy grail of efficient pneumatic board, or I could be totally wrong and that number is only for one side.
Yeah I asked Johnny earlier today when I saw him. He told itâs for 2 cus I set it up for 2. So I guess I got perfect settings 
I have a 10s2p battery pack with a charge only BMS (meepo sanyo pack) and it seems like the BMS is not working properly. Iâve pulled the shrinkwrap and tested the P Groups with a multi meter. 5 of the P Groups seem to fully charge (4.15v), while the other 5 P Groups only charge to ~3.8v. Is there a straightforward and safe way to charge the 3.8v groups up to 4.15v and see if the BMS can keep them balanced moving forward?
Get a 1s charger and hook it acroos one of the P groups. Wait till itâs charged, then move on to the next.
Or get 5 1s chargers, theyâre like $2 on amazon. Just make sure you run each of them from a power supply isolated from the other ones - otherwise youâll short your pack
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If you look for tp4056 itâs a 1S single lipo charger with USB (some micro some mini so get the right one probably have micro cables)
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Turnigy Aerodrive 6374: What is the shaft like for attatching pulleys?
I canât tell from pictures on hobbyking, but I found this which might be how it is? Has a little notch and Iâm wondering if that is the same on the 6374 shaft. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-6364-series-replacement-shaft-set.html
The 6374 Sk3 from turnigy just has a round shaft no notch from what I recall (switched to smaller higher kv motor since I wore down the 6374 and wanted to try a sensored motor and FOC mode). You can flatten the shaft with a Dremel and metal cutting disc to get a grub screw to grip key is not grinding it too much so the grub screw isnât pushing through the pulley but took some time to wear it down from what I recall too. Think the flat on the one you showed is actually the part in the can attached to it.
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Iâve recently charged one of my p groups. It wasnât within the threshold to trigger the BMS to balance it.
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Soo I tried a new cable that 100% can transfer data. I also switched over to a pc but it didnât look like stmicroelectronics virtual com port was installed
That didnât work either so I tried connecting a brand new unity and that wouldnât connect to the pc either. I have no clue what the issue could be at this point.