From psychotiller brand new, like drones battery. I’m not trying to create a bad image but maybe he got a bad batch of cells or something… Battery has less than 40 miles
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could also be a charger problem?
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It’s reading 49.9
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seems its all good.
Hmmm that seems a little low for a 12s pack IMO.
I had to turn my charger from 50.4V to 50.6 to get a full charge on my 12s packs.
Do chargers have voltage sag? Idk but I’d say it’s worth turning it up to at least 50.4 volts, most chargers have a little potentiometer inside to adjust the voltage.
Who else besides BigBen and eBoosted make fiberglass enclosures? Planning a future build with a Sector 9 Fault Line and the guts of a BuildKitBoards dual kit. 400x180x25 internals ideally
Edit: if anyone else knows a better deck thsn the Fault Line lemme know (38"-40" long, 9.5"+ wide, micro drop, top mount, sexy as fuck, under $100 shipped)
The Flybar - Glitch with a skinning job checks all those boxes except micro drop
Without a skinning job, it’s unusable. (and doesn’t check the sexy as fuck box either)
It’s the widest deck I’ve found.
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Tempting but I was gonna make this look as sleek as possible…might get it senderized, enclosure and all, with dark oak/brushed aluminum/carbon fiber texture… something I can bring to a business interview or design presentation without looking like a punk ass dweeb
I’d like the Switchblade 40" but the enclosures don’t leave room to forward mount without risers
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I’m trying to make a half price Hoyt St because it calls to me while my wallet cries basically
I had a Switchblade 40 and it felt way too short for me. It has a huge drop which makes it feel really short. And that’s the longest Switchblade Landyachtz makes.
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I mean I’m also 170cm/54kg…I’m using a Battle Axe 35" and it’s not awful in terms of length
But like who else makes enclosures?
Specific heat capacity is measured in Joule-Gram-Kelvins, which indicates how many joules it takes to raise a gram of that material by 1 Kelvin or 1 degree Celsius. While this is useful, for heat sinks, the volumetric heat capacity is more important as you want the smallest volume possible for a given amount of energy to be absorbed. A steel or copper would both be about 30% smaller than a given aluminum heatsink, and would be able to absorb the same amount of energy and increase the same amount of temperature. A larger heatsink would however have more surface area, so it’s not really 30% more effective. Another factor to look at is thermal conductivity, where copper is almost twice as conductive as aluminum. Copper would clearly be the best heatsink material.
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@VECTOR The weight was more important to me, as I have plenty of air volume inside the enclosure – but the mass is very high and it’s hard to carry.
I wasn’t looking for a “heatsink” or an increase in “continuous” rating but more a “thermal mass” to increase the “peak” rating but not the continuous rating.
@b264 If you need something with an extremely high specific heat capacity, you should make a container of your desired shape (maybe out of aluminum) and fill it with water.
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Hmmm maybe just fill the enclosure with water? That’s a good idea, if heavy
You’ll only need about half the water to get the same performance as a given block of aluminum, and it’s lighter to boot.
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Gravimetrically water is >4x better than aluminum, volumetrically it’s ~2x better.
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that means “by weight”. One pound (or kilogram, stone, etc) of water can store >4X more heat per degree than the same mass of aluminum.
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