I personally use onshape, it requires an internet connection since it is a web browser based tool (they made extensive use of WebGL to build CAD in the browser no download or install required). I went with this because Iām always changing machines and often OSes and using chrome as the common portal to all my 3D work, works well for me (mobile apps are nice to show things off on phone or tablet too). You can export STLs which are like a bitmap of 3D files just a bunch of points and the edges and faces that define the model (the āworking fileā in parametric modelling tools is the STEP file which most CAD programs can export or import certain ones will support or not support certain features but this is closer to a PSD or the āworking fileā), the STL is the output/result that can be sent to anyone to slice of create tool paths to create that shape.
I should note the big downside with onshape is the license is either like $10k a year or your models are all public domain (I opt for the latter, but this could be an issue for people)ā¦ Excuse all my parenthesis youād think I was a LISP programmer.
Both Fusion and Solidworks have their high points and low points, but the reality is that you can get Fusion for free as a hobbiest, and you canāt do that for solidworks so kinda seals the deal
I have Licenses for Solidworks from my school for now but they probably wonāt last long
hehe, No problem!
Thanks for this!
Hope you donāt mind me tagging both of you each time, but you guys know everything technology wise 
@MysticalDork
I conducted a highly scientific poll of my girlfriend, asking her āwhat would you say women think of electric skateboards?ā and her one word answer was ādweebs.ā
Highly impressed.
Honestly i am happy with being only a dweeb, at least i am not a penis warmer or a future shit sheet.
Please thank her and send her our return greetings
Hereās some more anecdotal data. My girlfriend asked me to build her a esk8 after she saw mine. Now she rides with me.
she bought this and stands around the houseā¦
https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/aa57fd5e-d7de-4a51-8f5e-6473c24f26a5/svn/tan-trademark-innovations-fitness-accessories-balbrd-wood-64_1000.jpg
Pulled my stator out to swap the phase wires for bigger ones, and a couple of the wires were glued to the metal mounting piece and snapped when I took it off, is this going to be a problem?
Might as well rewind. At best the motor is weaker. At worst it could short.
I have no idea how to rewind and donāt trust myself. The motor just passed a foc detection with no issues which is great. Whatās the chance of it shorting?
Letās put it this way: You now have a V8 engine that is running on six cylinders. Yes it still runs, but not well and itās only a matter of time before it grenades.
And you donāt want to be riding it when it grenades.
It might be fine if those loose strands are kept from shorting.
Makes me wonder how bigger motor companies like Tesla deal w the inevitable degradation of insulation on windings as eventually everything breaks down especially with heat cycling. For us and hobby motors the short could be very serious and across whole phases locking up brakes. If its a short across just a couple of turns on a single tooth that maybe wonāt launch you (launcher me) but hobby motors donāt take extra measures to avoid phase to phase shorts. Bet Tesla further isolates anything that told be disaster if shorts. Iām imagining a wheel locking up in a highway.
Another danger being the heat of the motor increasing inductance and resistance to the point the esc looses sync. Inefficient on the way there and then bam.
Sweet looks like Iāll be rewinding it. Any tutorials to help me through this process?
Itās easy. If u can fit an LRK winding even easier. But my talk of dangers isnāt really ur motor and if u insulated and pinned that loose one or two little bits and u pass the foc probably as safe as the rest
Just search LRK winding. And make sure u remember starts and ends of phases and clockwise and counter. Thereās a lot of little things to worry about but nothing complicated. Strip it without taking off the insulation on the stator is maybe most important otherwise the new winding will short. Heat the stator hot and pry it off but sure not to pull off the top r bottom lams. Rewind and u need to epoxy it. A lot of doing maybe just fix n go.
If u have the original bldc results: resistance and inductance. ā¦and you do rewindā¦be nice to see how it compares. These hobby motors are low quality considering what u could get in the same volume. The winding is one side easily improved. The rotor side also can be hugely boosted if you get the mags our w acetone and glue them back in with thin magnets sideways between (hallbach). A lot of these motors are w maybe 80% magnet fill which is good for a high speed motor but we want high torque and low copper losses mostly and 100% fill is better. With the hallbach way better as the iron behind them is so thin being designed for planes and the hallbach catches the otherwise lost field of the mags.
http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/ has a lot of info and theory, as well as a calculator for finding the ideal winding scheme.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Rewinding-a-Brushless-Motor/ Hereās a pretty concise walkthrough of the rewinding process.
Something you will have to figure out (I know thereās a calculator around somewhere but it escapes me at the moment) is finding the ideal number of wires - You want to have the desired number of turns to achieve the expected KV, with the lowest possible resistance - And thus the most copper you can pack into the stator as possible. More copper means less resistance and thus less energy wasted as heat.
There are lots of other resources out there, just search for ārewinding BLDC motorā or similar.
Iāll take a wheel lockup on highway in an automobile any day ā over a wheel lockup at speed on an electric longboard.
1/2 the turns and double the wire cross section for twice the kv & 1/4th the resistanceā¦
iāve noticed changes to the rotor velocity at no load speed are directly and linearly proportional to changes in electron drift velocity when the motor is stalled.
I saw a old vid from enertion and they replaced a meepo esc with the unity and it had a faster acceleration and top speed. Im pretty sure backfire and meepo use similar amount of amps on their motors and both with 30 amp output batteries. I dont understand, if the motors r getting 10 amps max on backfire esc, it still has WAY more torque than with focbox.
Meepo hubs run at about 20A. Iād try that on yours, and see how that feels.
There are a ton of settings in the vesc tool that could be causing your problems - Your remote/pwm could be wrong, for example.