@ZachTetra With the koowheel battery, I have 5 minutes of 23mph before dropping to 22mph. When I hit 10% battery left, it goes down to 14mph until it dies and then only brakes.
My best tools are a pencil and paper. Everything single thing will work better if planned ahead. Every wiring I did was drawn first to make sure I wasn’t screwing up something or had forgotten to put a fuse somewhere (@b264). If you draw it first you can refer to it later when building and even after if you need troubleshooting 
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I’ve got a off brand 10s2p, at 10% left it goes below 7mph because it only gives 1 or 2 amps. I hate it
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@GlitterSpitter A multimeter is also pretty much a necessity for working on EVs. Doesn’t have to be a multi-hundred-dollar Fluke, but without some way to check continutity, current and voltage, you’re effectively blind when troubleshooting.
@drone001 7 pole pairs, 14 magnets total. Dunno about remote.
@ZachTetra Ride your board, get a GPS speed measurement and then change the number until the calculated speed matches your GPS speed.
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thx much…
Hi, I’m currently building my first board, but I have a weird noise in my motors. Does anyone know what that is and how to solve it?
My current motor configuration:
Sounds like theyre cogging . Usually happens to me when I give a very slight push on the throttle. Is your photon well calibrated and centered properly?
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Disregard this comment, oops
How do you check kv on unknown motors?
Yeah, @Flasher is probably right. Set up your PWM (“PPM”) pulselength center/min/max in the VESC Tool. Maybe increase your deadband by 2% only if you can’t correct the center point.
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I did calibrate the remote with the build in calibrator of the remote, I will try to increase the deadzone of the throttle, see if that helps.
I’m not using the PPM mode of the remote, but I’m using UART signals. How would that apply in this mode?
If you’re using UART then pulselength is not applicable.
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Make sure during calibration that your center is dead center. Completely stupid he (wajdi) decided it was logical to click the joystick during calibration. Otherwise, increase deadband a good number. Test it. if no cogging decrease the deadband till it works for your needs I can’t help you much for now… kinda having a small problem with my photon.
It even likes imaginary chargers ever since the fire
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Yeah the click during calibration is pretty stupid. Did you give your photon a paint job?
Increasing the deadzone did not help, it still happens. The issue also happens when not in the neutral zone. I also happens when braking or running the motor. If it happens when the motors are spinning acts as a brake.
almost positive it’s 14 poles, most motors for esk8 are
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I’m at a loss there. If it’s not the remote, I’m not the right person for ya 
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Why do these kind of weird issues always happen to me
Hopefully somebody else can help me with this then
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@DSluijk
Many can. Just be patient till someone more knowledgeable sees this and tells how easy it was to repair 
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Easiest way is hook it up to a tachometer and give it a known voltage input max throttle an ESC with known input and calculate the kv https://youtu.be/IP4PFq6u7wg
