Shit is that really alll you can do
This is more expensive than my remote including the receiver xD
I was looking for some AliExpress or ebay link so that the receiver is affordable
Edit: even on AliExpress this thing is expensive
The whole remote including the receiver is like 15 euro and the receiver alone is 12 euro
#Aliexpress € 11,81 10%OFF | receiver only for 2.4Ghz mini remote controller free shipping by post
what happens at voltage cutoff End?
I don’t recommend CANBUS in general, but if you do use it, it doesn’t matter if it’s V4 or V6 hardware.
You definitely can use 2 receivers. There is a guide
Throttle stops, but brakes continue.
Throttle ramps down from 100% of your motor settings at “cutoff start” to 0% of your motor settings at “cutoff end” but the brakes continue to work always at full power as long as the battery has enough power to keep the MCU booted. And in fact the brakes will slightly recharge the battery so it can run the MCU even longer.
@MysticalDork has a really good method on this that i bookmarked
cool thx. I heard something hit my deck after climbing a hill and my board powered off. it turn back on with no problems no visual damage but i was pretty close to cutoff end just wanted be sure that cutoff end does not mean power down which i knew already but it was one of those “what da hell…I wonder” moments.
If I use a Battery with 60A Max Discharge with two 4.12 FSESCs running solo with split ppm (by using two receivers), do I want my battery max on the VESCs set to 30A each, since I’m running them in parallel? Also, how do I choose the right battery minimum value and max/min motor value?
Battery: 10S3P 60A discharge
VESC: 2x Flipsky VESC 4.12 50A continous
Motor: 2x Flipsky 6355 65A Max
your logic here is sound
i would want to know what cells are in your pack before hazarding a guess
how many n00bs does it take to make a quorum?
Ive used plastic wrap (cellophane) before to help shape the JBweld around my VESCs in my enclosure, but has anyone tried to use plastic wrap with silicone?
I’m thinking the only way to compress the internals of my enclosure to give a proper seal/flat top to the silicone I pump into the enclosure is to bolt it to the deck, but I don’t want to mate the deck and enclosure… Id rather it be two pieces
What materials have people used to help squish silicone down without it sticking to the opposite surface?
start here… there is a bit on catalyzing silicone…
Too spooked to use water in it but I’ll keep reading
not water IN it… water on your pressing agent… and anything else you don’t wish it to stick to…
welp… there is my some and total knowledge of catalyzing silicone… i’ll let others converse
I got a quick question.
If people have issues with max erpm braking/lockup, why don’t they set much higher erpm limits if their esc can safely handle a value much higher than it is set to?
If their esc can’t, why not just limit your max duty cycle in ppm to less than the 95% so that you never hit the limit, and fall at 35 mph?
I would like to prevent a lockup mid ride as much as possible, and my understanding of erpm and how it works in your esc confuses me.
Would love to know more about this
Imagine your board hits erpm limit at exactly 20.00km/h. Now imagine you set all those limits you say. Now go down a steep hill that would get you to that speed even with brakes engaged and you’ll see why it gets scary and fast
Is there any support at all for tizen os? Any app, bluetooth module? Anything at all?
Split PWM (“PPM”) is one receiver. Dual PWM is two receivers