Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Depends how the battery is built. If you’re not crushing any PCB, the cells themselves can take a moderate amount of pressure. I think, if you can close the enclosure with your hands alone, you’re fine. If you gotta stand on it and use bolts to close it, prolly excessive. Foam tape is good because it can compress


oh cool. i’m good then…thx.

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What would be an ideal cutoff voltage for a 12s4p 40t battery?
Cutoff start and end in the vesc tool.

Battery cutoff start 36V

battery cutoff hard 33.5V


Thank you :+1:

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Ok I tried the suggested setting 36v and 33.50 but now the other motor doesn’t spin. I’m guessing the battery is low. Because when I set it back to 10v cutoff start it starts moving again. I tried the same setting on the other motor but it still spins even at 36v. Tried 46v and it still spins.

well something is fukked up.

what voltage is your battery?
If your battery is low, charge it… then run motor detection again.

70% charged

so it obviously isn’t low voltage cut-off or end…

Tried the motor detection wizard. It’s now saying Detection Failed with the 36v-33.50v setting. But with no cutoff voltage it detects the Bldc parameter :man_shrugging:t3:

try detect again at:
Battery cutoff start 42V

Battery cutoff hard 36V

What kinda k00ky ESCs are you using, and firmware?

Anything higher than 30v start and 27v end Detection will fail but at the 30v start and 27v end it detects it and motor spins fine.

Other motor is fine at 36v and 33.60v end.

Is this setting fine this is the only work around I can think off.
1st motor 36v cutoff start and 27v end. It was the end voltage that effin up the detection. It cuts off ok though at 36v.
2nd motor 36v cutoff start and 33.60v end.

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i dunno… you got something wacky going on…

but if it works it works…

I would just be mindful of your pack voltage once you get down around the 36v cutoff, and not run the pack down to 27v… it wouldn’t like that…

new Unity worked fine for a couple of weeks. installed new remote had problems so i re-installed my old remote and now I’m getting those micro-braking episodes again. This is a new Unity different remote (mini) new motors. anyone have some ideas what this could be?

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I need to get a new VESC as I shorted the phase wires on my motor. :frowning: I was going to get a flipsky 4.12 VESC, to replace my hobbyking one as ive heard they are quite good. I found this on ebay, for the same price as one from china with faster shipping.

This one says it is a FSVESC instead of FSESC, as shown on flipsky website. It also says it is V$. Is this the same thing? Thanks

what do you guys think, is it ok to use these 5mm standoffs on boardnamics mounts ? the alternative is to use them on the hubs themselves, but i would assume its more efficient to line up the pulleys with the mounts?
i am considering this because it seems the wheel pulleys allready stand off quite enough to cover distance for either gummies or the evolve tires not to rub on belts

sorry to tag for this trivial matter, but what do you think @Boardnamics?

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I’m really confused by your setup here. Can you give us a picture of the wheel/pulley setup without the mount in the way?


on the last picture you see the distance i have to cover to align belts, i approached it with moving the mount further out on the hangar, and then adding those standoffs because it still couldnt align

what you see is the untreated side btw

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