Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Good to know those motors can’t be damaged that way a lot of them don’t have the stop for the screw at the back just need to have the right length. Think multimeter and checking the resistance between different phase wires is your best bet now see if there is some major difference in the one that works and one that doesn’t but probably looking at replacement if that’s the problem.

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Not the best cells, technology has evolved over the last 4-5yrs, but it’s compensated by having 8P of them to provide a decent output. You’d get a much better power/weight ratio in a modern 10S3P or 10S4P, but that’d be a different budget.



I got my multimeter and tested the resistance (hope I did it right, it has been a while) :


Here is how I did to make sure I did not goofed up, range is on “Ω” :

Any idea ?


I’m surprised you remember that I did it :joy:


I basically just took a drill with a drill bit that fitted in the hole of the core and then slowly made the core bigger by powering the drill.

Hope that makes somewhat sense, if not, speak up! :slight_smile:

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You’ll probably have to take the cans off and look if the windings look good.


i believe we have a thread where folks advertise their appetite for battery voltage risk

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Does anyone know if a Ollin pulley will fit a evolve supercarve trucks

You should be fine, i have split ppm on two flipsky esc also, make sure you program each vesc individually and then make sure only 1 red cable is connected to ppm split cable connection.


Hahha @ahrav that helps actually!

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Yah looks like a kosher setup to me and should be getting good values. Like @tipsy said if you really want to get to the bottom of it taking the can off and examining the components individually is the way to go from here only other thing I can think of is something between the magnets on the can/rotor and the windings/stator, if the values look pretty much the same then probably not a short in the windings if it has to go half the distance through same (average) resistance wire it will be half the resistance, if you can get it showing milliohm or smaller resistances as bigger values it helps but looks all the same to me. Would look for scuff marks on the magnets in the can if going that far but can be more or less difficult to get the can on and off without proper tools.

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@b264 hey! Got the measurement. 18.5 x 6 inches for the battery

Yes I figured removing the can will be hard without tools and experience and I don’t want to risk damaging it. I will see if I can get a more precise range on the multimeter.

I sent a mail to Torqueboards and I trust that they will find a solution for me. Thanks a lot to you and @tipsy. :slight_smile:

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Hahaha 47x15 :sweat_smile:

you’re almost there.

when configuring the master, in the app configuration ppm tab enable “multiple esc over can” and traction control if you want, and in the app configuration general tab set the controller ID to 0 (or whatever).

when configuring the slave, in the app configuration genral tab set the app to “no app”, set the controller ID to 1 (or whatever, anything but the same number you assigned to the master), and enable “send status over CAN”


So I actually had a similar issue with one of my DD motors. It was stuck. I kinda just tapped it with a mallet while turning the motors (with some force since it was stuck). Which freed up the motor from sticking. I would advise you to not do this without checking with @torqueboards but it worked for me on two of my motors when I had the same issue. Image below in reference to where and what direction I tapped the motor.


Cool! Will give that a go, thanks! And thanks very much @AngryTrucker for sharing your amazing memory!

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Cheers Alex. Great to see what the cells are. Found some stuff on them from Mooch. 5amps each at 8p so ~40amps total discharge. Yup power to weight wouldn’t be ideal, but reasonable capacity. Have you used one of these ? Your pics? Experience with it?

I’ve got 3 of those packs… from when I obtained them at $230 each. That was greedy!
I don’t think I ever needed to pull more than 40A for more than a couple of seconds. In the booklet, Hitachi says 50A max output current, but that’s on the edge of the cell specs.

The only problem for an eSK8 application is the way the internal BMS shuts down the pack at the end of a charging cycle. So if you’re braking hard for more than a few seconds, it will enter a charge cycle, and you might find your battery has shut down when you want to accelerate again. Replacing the BMS could be an option for that. Upgrading the cells too at a later stage is a possibility.
Works great on an eBike. Works great if you have physical brakes. I swap the pack between different vehicles, Bike, electrified/kite buggy, and single 6364 powered skateboard contraption, … and garden tools. I can do 30km without any pedalling. And way much more than what my legs can deal with on a skateboard.

Anyway, that’s not perfect, but it’s a pretty capable high capacity battery at a reasonable price in that part of the world. The ninja turtle look is just a bonus!


Has anyone motorized a bike trailer to use with a powered board ?