Need some tips on how to strip the enamel coating (shown below) on the motor wires of a pair of Maytech 6880s I have. For some reason the long phase wires are fully coated making it very difficult to shorten them and resolder because nothing sticks-. Nothing really strips the enamel either- heat, acetone, sanding. I need a good solvent, any tips?
Heat should be able to melt it (careful with the splurts it sticks and burns), what did you use? Heat gun?
I think it will need to be chemically removed. Tried with high wattage iron. This is a coating on the individual strands. It’s basically the motor windings
sand paper individually unfortunately 
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good lord, why maytech
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I bet hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid)would work. You can buy it fir like $10 a gallon at home depot.
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Another one, crimp method @Murloc992
And this type of machine
I believe hummie tried one like this, and it works.
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some simple sandpaper or a file will do. they’ll shine alot brighter without the coating.
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I bet this will work, let you know
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/resin-remover-industrial-use-paint-stripper-55
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Never tried it but I saw a video of someone using aspirine (aspirin?) and a soldering iron to remove the enamel.
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Had never heard that. Cool tip!
Had to look it up
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Worth a try.
Makes you wonder what kinda stuff they put in that pill?
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Thanks for the suggestions lol. Tried the aspirin, pass on that that. Made some funky fumes. Best/fastest way is with a propane torch and rotary wire brush. What misery
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Pay attention to the motor resistance detected by your esc. I tried it this way first, and got really high resistance measurements, and thought I’d try the LYE method @deucesdown linked above. It’s utterly effective, but it’s really dangerous to do.
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Yea I read that after I buttoned up the enclosure. I’ll have to re-run the detection and see what kind of resistance I was getting. What is a normal range? Motor detection went fine on both motors though, no issues.
I also tried an overnight sodium hydroxide bath but didn’t have an effect on stripping. It probably needs to boil like your method to be effective
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You can just scratch it off with a sharp knife right? Thats what i did and added some solder fluid on the wires, it soldered perfectly fine.
Edit oh i see you already fixed it, good on you 
Originally I was showing 21-27 mOhms, and after reterminating the lye-stripped motors, I was reading 14 consistently, every time I ran the detection. I don’t know enough about this measurement’s importance to efficiency of operations to speak risk/benefit, but Idk. I just felt that it might be worthwhile. Plus, I wanted the attention (I’m a loser)
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So the moral of the story is not to attempt to cut/resolder maytech motor wires.
Glad you got it to work in the end @Static
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Thanks, same motor so should be able to make a good comparison