Hey guys- just trying to think of my options here… I have my boardnmanics mounts w tensioner (lovely product) that I’ve been running on my tayto w ollin popoca 90mm wheels… the way the mount is designed results in me scraping the bolts too often, sometimes getting tossed off if I hit something even marginally uneven. One thought would be to go to larger wheels- alternatively maybe find a flat top bolt? Any other thoughts from the crew? Thanks all. Stay safe!
2 Likes
There are only 2 options…
- Bigger wheels
- Smaller mounts
4 Likes
Any recommended smaller mounts that people particularly prefer on a build as such?
Get some shorter screws and lower profile nuts
1 Like
There are lots of possibilities for use on Caliber II trucks, I am not a fan of them so I cant say off the top of my head. My first stops would be @torqueboards and @ATC.
Counterbore holes into the mounts. Use cap head bolts so the bolt heads fit in the counterbores.
2 Likes
Not a technique I’m familiar w… can I do that w a dremel?
If you have really good hands or the right cutter.
2 Likes
5 Likes
slight derail… that is a really flattering pic… tasty anodizing
1 Like
Thank you! That is actually the older style. Version 2 if you would. Current version 3 has a sandblast finish
2 Likes
They are quite stellar mounts… also found I had version two (i think) w the wider trucks sitting around and moved the button head from that unfinished build to the current build…
No it wouldn’t. The weakest section in the design is through the first horizontal bolt hole going through the motor mount. Counterboring the flange wouldn’t change that.
Over torque the bolt that is scraping and the failure will start at the intersection of the flange and curved portion of the fitting and run through the horizontal bolt hole towards the center of the shaft. Counterbore the flange and over torque the bolt and the same exact failure will occur at the same load.
As the clamp operates on strong compressive force, and appears to be aluminum, I dont think that threads in the aluminum would hold up. I imagine you would strip them out just trying to torque the clamp down enough to lock in the mount.
Button head screw will buy you a few mm, or you could countersink for a flat head bolt (the kind with the chamfered head, like skate hardware. If you are sticking with button head or socket cap, them counterboring will buy you a few more mm.
Realistically though i think larger wheels are a better solution. Instant clearance, you dont have to fuck with your mounts, and it has the added benefit of making your ride much more comfortable 
1 Like
If you’re going to cut away why not just grind flat and use the existing screw on the lowered surface?
I had the same problem with these mounts. I had a pretty bad fall because the lowest part of the mount hooked onto a metal cover on the street. I ended up using larger wheels. Upgrading from 90mm to 97mm seems to solved the problem. That style of mount is dangerous if used with wheels smaller than 97mm. Becarefull.
1 Like
I might try this option.
They’re great mounts… but yes, i can see them being a little dangerous for exactly that reason - may be worth a redesign - I wonder how much more work it would get to make these w the bolt countersunk by design ? Trying to save a few mm here and there makes for a much safer build which is why I swapped out the bolt to something more flush (see above) and am upgrading from 90 to 100 mm wheels.
1 Like