Im tellin you guys, you gotta get that hood ornament game up, also anti theft 
Hey, cars might even start to avoid you, i know id be afraid
Hey, cars might even start to avoid you, i know id be afraid
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So I got the second part of this mod done this evening, splitter on the main power to the esc.
I don’t like the spark that happens when the esc is plugged into the pcb mounted xt90, so i made my auxilliary connection an xt90s. This way, i can plug the auxilliary battery in to the esc to precharge the caps through the antispark, then plug in the main battery, then i can disconnect the aux.
This did make me think though, is there any good reason why I can’t power up the vesc using the charger alone?
The auxilliary lead will be plugged into another lead that will make it’s way out somehow through the lid… that’s part 3, coming soon…
Got out for a little ride today, but its meant to rain for the next week straight pretty much, so i figured we may as well tinker.
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Why are you getting a spark? Doesn’t the mach1 have a power button?
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I’ve wondered this before too while my battery was being replaced. My only concern was if it would demand too much power during a detection but that seems unlikely.
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Capacitors aren’t switched
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The maker x is the power button that does the ‘sleep’ power.
The spark is only small, but i was figured that since i was fucking around with it, i may as well be able to mitigate that spark
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Been here done that. I got crappy detection results when i was trying this on a low power charger 5a iirc. I think the charger response is too slow to get good results and to get good numbers you need to have more amps available? Worked well for messing with settings and setting up remotes but without some kind of franken-al splitter I still got pops plugging in my battery after pre charging the caps on a hobbywing and flipsky i was doing it on. Now i just have spare batteries around all the time for my fafo adventures
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We need to normalise the phrase FAFO
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It’s more than a phrase, it’s a lifestyle
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Antispark worked exactly as planned
Ngl, i did hesitate. For maybe 1.5 seconds onwards!!!
Healthy slathering of hot glue in there. The inside of the lid is really cool, it has ribs for strength and i used the hollow created by the ribs to house my nuts and run my cables, super easy.
Done! Direct to battery port complete. I can use this for ultra fast charging, or connecting a parallel battery. I’ve never printed one of these out of TPU before, so i’ve given it a crack here… will see how it holds up.
Next, I just need to design a bit of a ‘seat’ for the parallel battery so that it sits nice and doesn’t move around…
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Oh it’s for an extension pack I feel dumb
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This is awesome dude! Love the simplicity of using that XT90 for both parrelel charging and range extender.
It’s great seeing how this deck system makes it rather easy for you to customise and mod this thing.
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Yeah dude, its great! Its nice that there’s still so much room for activities inside as well.
Once the power upgrades are done, its on to handle and bullbar 
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Power upgrades complete 
the top box just straps on and plugs into the port I added earlier. I have new straps coming so they are just black, no logos 
The top box is the aluminium extrusion from an old Yewy charger that I blew up back in the day. I built a 12s3p 50e with reclaimed scooter cells, attached a daly bms and 3d printed end caps for the extrusion.
One of the end caps has an xt30 for charge and an xt60 direct to battery.
The last time I employed this top box I had dramas getting it to stay still on the deck, even when strapped down tight, it still vibrated around. So i removed the old bits I had on there and printed shiny new bits out of TPU.
The TPU (3 walls, 20% gyroid infill) as well as the design gives it a bit of squish, which helps with tying it down in place and also tpu grips the griptape quite well.
As well as the squish, i didn’t get photos of the actual rails, just the keyed spots in the bottom… i printed little rails that go into those keyed holes and are shaped to perfectly fit around the power port on the board. This completely mitigates any wandering of the top box
I had a little whoopsie last night, it was a combination of too much throttle, letting off the throttle and hitting a speed bump all at the same time. Busted up my knees pretty good but the rest of the gear did it’s job well… but it ended my gloves 
Soooo I got new gloves. And knee pads while I was at it.
The gloves are really comfortable. They have the Knox SPS and kangaroo leather fucking expensive but worth it if they last a while, time will tell. I don’t want to cut them up tho and puck isn’t so easy to use with them…
Enter the ol’ faithful PPB. Much better shape for glove use, but i’m still struggling with dexterity… the Bruce OSRR was a much better size for glove use… how’s that next batch of OSRR going @DerelictRobot ?
I think I want to change the ramping on the puck a little bit too. When i let off the throttle it literally feels like i’m hitting a wall, it drops off so quick. Does negative ramping include letting off the throttle??? Or is it just for negative input? 
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Cant you put a small hole in the thumb to kinda stick the thumb wheel in?
I ask this as it was what i was going to do with my winter alpine stars gloves… i sort of just got used to it in the end tho
Yeah typically i just cut the tip of the thumb off, but i kinda wanna keep these ones whole.
And i want another OSRR i miss my bruce
Yes, negative ramping time is return to zero after letting go, no matter if you are accelerating or braking. But as soon as you hit the opposite direction (e.g. braking after accelerating), then positive ramping time will override it.
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