Ah good to know before I ordered, damn. I want free ride wheels so bad 
Rebrand of Flash Airless 125mm
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Does anyone know the hole spacing of the standard kegel pattern? “Bolt circle” and hole diameter? I’m making some aluminum hubs and was going to drill some lightening holes and figured I might as well make a useful hole pattern.
Also I’m thinking that with an aluminum hub there is no reason to use a center spacer since the aluminum is stiff enough that the bearings won’t be pushed together when tightening, and leaving the spacer out will make bearing removal easier. Correct?
If one does not use a bearing spacer, then when carving, most of the lateral loading is carried by only one bearing instead of being spread more evenly across both bearings.
Ill never carve without a bearing spacer, no matter the wheel material.
Trying to think through the physics here, both bearings are held in the same hub and riding on the same axle, neither of which will allow independent lateral movement, (in the case of an aluminum hub). I can understand if a plastic hub were being used it might be the case that the hub could flex some under load and possibly cause uneven loading.
This explanation makes more sense to me, the spacer locks the inner race together and prevents it spinning on the axle:
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I remembered the front wheels on my Shark Wheel board were Kegel pattern
Measured out to a 1.25 inch bolt circle, the actual pin holes seem to be tapered down to .25 inch so I might drill them to that to leave material for over boring in case I ever decide to run a Kegel pulley if the pins are larger.
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You need a bearing spacer. Otherwise any preload torque from the nut applies extreme axial loading to both bearings.
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