Found this thanks to your tip. But no Caliber listed tho.
I still feel like thereās a risk of user error from over tightening.
Putting an x thing or some kind of washers on the top of the deck will protect your deck pretty well.
And Iād rather use the base plate to get my angles then to use risers at all.
canāt find a supplier in Europe that would have them in stock 
Yeah caliber trucks are kind of the poor Manās downhill truck.
thereās a lot of options about the same price that most people would take over caliber trucks in the downhill community.
Itās such a small part Iām sure we can figure out a way to get one over there to you
Plus they are pretty inexpensive
We deal with speed wobble issues all the time with existing techā¦you are overthinking it by a long shot.
I am not sure who put this graphic together but whoever did, discovered a way of converting a RKP to a TKP and also an excellent way to destroy pivot cups and bind the turning moment to unknown proportionsā¦WOW. Just so you know, with a RKP, the pivot axis and king pin axis are perpendicular whereas a TKP is not.
Not sure I understand this. The graphic looks accurate to me. what am I missing? Is it no longer considered RKP if the kingpin/povot angle is not exactly 90*?
Good to know. As I stated earlier in this thread one of my trucks has too short of bushings and is not lined up in the pivot perfectly. I wondered if this decreased pivot cup lifespan.
All things being equal, the difference between a RKP and TKP is the angle of axis intersection. Perpendicular is RKP, other than is RKP in my definition. Obviously most TKPās have a more than a couple of degrees of misalignment than what is shown above but straying very far from perpendicular changes the path the axle scribes from a straight line to an arc which is why RKPās handle speed more predictably than TKPās. If the RKP hanger has a cylindrical component to itās pivot nose, it will bind in the cup and decrease itās life. TKPās normally have a cone shaped pivot to allow for them to rock in the pivot cup.
True but is it doable? And would it work?
From what I know (feel free to correct me) wobbles are dealt with skill (weight shifting to the front) and truck angle. If thatās it, doesnāt mean wobbles are gone, itās just the setup and skill which compensate.
Hence the question about directly dampening it with the bushing itself.
Thatās speaking for classic trucks, I donāt know about custom ones like Moe trucks.
It was a random image I found googling 
I was more trying to say angles were measured from the base plate
It alleviates bolt bending, big plus.
It is hard to say if it would work or not, I suspect the end effect would diminish some of the really desirable characteristic of a good bushings like responsiveness or rebound energy that you use to blast out of a turn when riding aggressively.
So does avoiding big wedged risers all together.
True!
When going fast, keep the cg in the front of the board! This plays the biggest roll in preventing speed wobles.
Havenāt seen it mentioned, but has anyone considered the pendulum effect? CoG below pivot point is more stable than CoG above pivot point? Can also be harder to turn, but you see where Iām going?