I always though angle was the kingpin relative to the baseplate (deck). Relative to the ground would mean that if half the board is on an incline or decline, it would change the turning (maybe it does although I feel that’s more because of the incline or decline than changing the relative angles)
Doing the math here:
Assuming board is flat at 0 degrees and a wheel base of 30 inches
tan(0) * 30 = 0 = flat
tan(1) * 30 = .52 => half an inch offset for 1 degree change relative to axle
tan(2) * 30 = 1.04 => an inch offset for 2 degree change relative to axle.
Yah but what is the base plate angle refer to? angle to the deck or road? That’s the question.
I am unsure but initially thought road. Most skate decks are parallel to the road so it’s the same either way. But what about MTB? 35* tips with what are 0* trucks. In actuality they’re more like 90* due to the kingpin being parallel with the ground but I’m calling them 0* because if they were mounted to a flat deck they would have no steering at that angle.
The rubber cup maybe but those are easy to replace I would imagine. The actual cup itself is probably fine. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of a cup failure
From what I understand the angle is measured from angle of kingpin to baseplate. This would change the angle if you added a wedge between baseplate and board.
and having a larger angle does elevate the trucks further off the ground as you can see here my front is at 50 (Purple) and my rear is noticeably lower at 35 (Gold). This seems to make my rear have more lean than the 35 degree should give them because of the height difference. I’m going to try using my non adjustable 50 plates in front and less riser to even out the height.
100mm to 90mm is about a 10mm difference which in reality should be closer to 5mm of actual axel offset. 5mm = .2".
For a 30" wheelbase, a change in .2" is less than 1 degree of angle change relative to the ground.
My guess is you won’t really feel an actual turning difference.
That being said, with the board angled up now constantly, it may feel different enough. I wonder if it’ll force most of your weight back though…
Something else to consider (although I highly doubt it would have any affect) is with bigger and heavier wheels, the gyroscopic will keep the rear end in place
So is it correct to say that there is no difference in truck performance between different kingpin angles vs. wedged risers or bushing height? It seems it may be a little more flexible to buy pairs of the same truck and use wedge and/or bushings to vary the angles.
If the base plates are available in the angles you’re looking for it’s always best to achieve true angles that way. Angled risers are kind of a last resort. It puts more lateral strain on the hardware.
The order of operations for achieving split angle tuning should be.
Base plate - bushings - washers - risers.
So I got this idea in my mind for months now but realize I might not achieve it by myself so sharing…
Tagging @RipTideSports for pro tips too.
Given the randomness of load spikes induced during wobbles, and how fast these are, I wonder :
Is it possible to make dual compounds bushings ?
In order to mix layers of d3o or similar rheoabsorbant material within the bushing. I’m thinking a hollow bushing with a cylinder like insert of d3o inside.
I mean : any wobble has to travel through the bushings from hanger to kingpin/baseplate right? What if the spike is just dampened inside the bushing. Problem solved?
I don’t know how much I would trust a design like that.
If puts all the force pressure on the threads of the hardware rather than between the head of the bolt and the nut. user error can happen from over tightening pretty easily.
When it comes to running surf rods or calibers there’s a good variety of base plate options even without adjustable base plates.
