Since this is only using a 5065 motor, I think the strength isn’t an issue. In this case the fixed mounting and low profile make it much easier for me
I’d really like to know if anyone has real world experience comparing the 30t and 40t in the same pack type.
Swapped to Ahmyo Akasha wheels because 4mm makes a difference, are there trucks smaller than 160mm Caliber IIs that are good for eskate?
Surfrodz TKP with super short hangers
I wish, but I got a budget to maintain
But if anyone has some TKP SRs and a single mount adapter they’d get rid of for like $50 shipped lemme know
Designed a custom compression pack for 10s1p 21700 cells. It is made to be 3D printed and uses 10mm nickel strips as the current carrier. It has holes for 8x M3 threaded rods to clamp the whole think together. The nice thing is all the balance wires come out in order so no messy cross overs and stuff. The wires get soldered to the nickel and slotted in, with a radius on the bends so they don’t snap. The whole cross section is 124x44 mm (4 7/8x1 3/4 in) including wires since they are in the empty corners. Main wires are just soldered on to the nickel tabs
why tripple stacked?
Looks double stacked to me; there are 4 larger holes between the cells on each level for tightening the pack down it looks like, and 5 smaller holes on each level for the balance wires.
The staggered double stack is basically my only option because end to end is messy and all other configs take too much space. I’ll have a view of all the internal features in a couple hours
How about routing a channel from the balance wires to the side so they are protected
I was thinking I would clamp them but a channel would definitely be better. I will add that when I work out the layout of the BMS
These were on sale so I had to get them, 9" white Calibers…the originals. 905g…christ they are desnse
Help a new guy out, what’s the difference between the cut and uncut akasha wheels?
There is the downhill (DH) and the freeride (FR) version, the DH is meant for speed and control whereas FR is meant for slides and drifting. The uncut is for DH because the lip gives hella traction when a lateral force is applied, the cut is for FR since it slips out. I think the uncut is better for mine because I don’t want the motor wheel to slip out when turning
Now that I have the trucks in hand, I’ve made some basic measurements, and I might be in trouble. The gap from the inner edge of my ABECs to the start of the radius on the hangar neck is only 29mm…the Akashas are another 1mm thicker on the inner edge (I think), the belt is at least 9mm, another 3mm for its clearances (belt to wheel, wheel to pulley edge, pulley to mount), and the mount is probably around 14mm…that leaves me with no more than 2mm of tolerances
Edit: for 15:36 on BKB mounts using smaller motors (38mm diameter hole pattern), the magic belt length is 245mm
Ooh she’s a cutie! Supposedly the BKB mounts needed a 1/4" to 1/2" riser but fuck that, it passed a paper test with the bushings super loose. The final version will sit a few mm shorter, I’ll loose 7mm going from 90mm to 76mm wheels but it gains 3mm back from the shock pad
P.S. I love bamboo and sugar frit
More loot and updates! I printed an exact replica of a Racerstar 5065 to test the fit, and a package with a MayTech 4.12 50A VESC and a BKB Bluetooth module came in the mail. Good news is the motor fits perfectly, there’s just enough room between the can and hangar to mall grab it, bad news is the ESC is massive compared to the space I have left…it’s gonna be a squeeze
Maybe put the battery ontop the vesc and 3d print a riser to make the battery level
I was thinking that too, I’ll have all 10 cells in a line and all the electronics on the top. Alternatively I’ll stack all the electronics and have a DS battery
Wait that’s not possible, the battery would be 210mm end to end in the first configuration and it’s 190mm from mount to truck