any +/- on the thing?
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@kook
(+)most solid remote I’ve personally ever used. Easy to setup, easy to tweak with the trims and has a 2nd Channel for my picoswitch powered lightbar.
(-)since I’ve had it, I’ve had 2 instances of powering up the board with the remote entering some sort of failsafe mode. Basically it was sending a signal to my motor that was adding alot of magnetic friction if no power was sent to the motors. So I wouldnt notice until doing red light stops. Stop, accelerate, and wipe out as soon as I let go of the throttle. Now I always check when I turn on the board to make sure it’s not in that weird state.
All in all it has served me well for over a year and I’d buy it ten times over to keep it alive
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I feel you really like the feels in Ur hand…??? that’s the part I’m more interested in…
I’m new to finger trigger throttle… I like the mini price and reliability… but the toy quality of the remote has me…
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any more deets on this? Is the failsafe able to be set somehow
because on the mini it was a long time before I figured out how to actually set it… then let everyone else know…
yes I also want to know how usable it is with phat gloves on
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It should be able to be set with a jumper on the receiver.
I like the form, the quality of the plastic is solid but feels low quality.
Umm well…I have the index of my left glove cut off. I think you could make a 3d print to make it phat finger friendly. But yeah, my index finger got really fucking frozen this winter to the point I had to stop riding till I could feel my throttle again
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thanks
all I needed to gleen and know… I’m off to fusion… if we kin make a solid feeling trigger-remote outta a mini… we might have a weiner
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@janpom it would be a selling/convenience point to have a passthru USB port on the next gen if DaveGA. I guess this would not be ideal while actually in use due to running power requirements of the actual unit.
While stationary this would be a lovely feature.
This is a great idea. As a vaper and an esk8 enthusiast I have a metric ass ton of 18650s laying around!
Can it take the voltage? I’m using 10s
Says they are rated up to 53v which is good on boards up to 12s though @Flasher mentioned he had issues with a similar model on only 6s. Note these converters are only rates for 20w total. Sounds like for $10 it’s worth a shot though you can always just pickup a power bank like this and isolate any potential issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075SW3THG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
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You have to be very careful with the LM2596HVS because there are many fakes that as I have found literally blow up over 40v. Here is one that is known to work up to 60v:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W8UTRJA/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_yyXdFbW6PEHEE
Also don’t forget to fuse the USB port as I found when the LM2596HVS does die it completely shorts out.
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How do i solder onto the USB port?
True, I could always get a power bank but I want it built into my board
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Have someone 3d print you a better chassis for it then?
Don’t like the Layer-Lines from a 3d print, someone here may have a SLS printer. Or just bondo the print and sand smooth + paint.
Edit: I think a good 3d Print feels better than most ‘meh’ quality injection molded plastics personally. hence the suggestion.
Also also:
Interested in seeing this 
I would say get a breakout board like this
10Pcs USB 2.0 Breakout Board, MELIFE USB to DIP Adapter 2.54mm Breakout Board 4 Pins Pinboard USB Type A Breakout Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W7XMV3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r4XdFbW8K1HH7
And connect the OUT+ of the buck converter to the VBUS, and the OUT- of the buck converter to the GND. Just make sure before you do any of that the buck converters output is set to 5v with the pot.
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What’s the pot?
Potentiometer
You connect a multimeter to the output and turn the screw very slowly to control what voltage you want.
I emphasize on the “very slowly” as I somehow always forget which way to turn and end up with a screw that no longer changes the voltage for cause of turning too much in one direction
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Ohhhhhhh ok thank you. And on the other method, can I connect it to the 5v pin instead?
You could but you would be putting in danger the reliability of your system. If your esc goes poof while stopping for traffic, you’ll be wishing you knew how to fly
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I did something like this:
used Buck Converter:
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