Adding USB port?

Hey guys,

I was wondering how I could be able to add a USB port into my board. Yes I know, it’s extra, but just in case my remote dies or phone dies, I’ll be prepared.

I have 2 ideas:

  1. Get a voltage downgrader thing from Amazon. Like this. The problem with this is that it takes up a lot of space (80x75x31mm) (more info on space below)

  2. Solder straight from my vx1 receiver. The good part about the receiver us that it has a dedicated 5v wire which I can solder onto. I just don’t know if this will take voltage away from my receiver or anything. This Won’t take a lot of space at all

The problem with both of these is space. I do not know if I’ll have enough space in my enclosure. I am using the eBoosted 10a4p enclosures for my loaded vanguard with a. 10s4p vtc6 battery. Has anyone done this before?

Also, I cannot seem to find a USB port I can just solder onto. If anyone has one of those, let me know.

It’s been done but I find it impractical. I just either get a power bank or make it so that the devices I’m using can charge off one another.

For example if I have my iPad Pro and iPhone with me, I know my iPhone is safe hands since it can charge off the iPad.

you mean something like this?

Yeah like that just not from ali

Yeah I understand that. If it’s not an insane hassle I wouldn’t be thinking about it… unless it is and I just don’t know

amazon also have them, but they all comes from china anyway

https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Standard-Female-Solder-Connector/dp/B07T82FB1M/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=pcb+usb+type+a&qid=1594783413&sr=8-8

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Ok thanks. Free 2 day shipping on Amazon compared to 45 dollars for 2 weeks on ali

Just get a powerbank. I have a modular powerbank that allows me to put any 18650 I want in it (it also doubles as a 18650 charger for all my spares). So I carry it and a 8x battery case.

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Oh shit that’s cool. Lemme look one up

It’s a pretty nifty gadget to have.
Takes 1 to 4 cells and uses/charges them individually so never need to have them all in perfect balance

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@maxmayer I’ve also used it recently to bring a entire pgroup back to life :joy:

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This might be a good fit for you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N0JV0WV/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A1CAGO66D4VW1F&psc=1

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@Lunartic I’ve used these in my build. Anything over 24 volts will fry them.

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It says they are rated up to 53v… That’s annoying! Are you sure it wasnt trying to pull more than 3 amps?

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Thats neat :ok_hand:

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That’s the LM2596 module, not the LM2596HVS module as @Lunartic linked

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These are the ones I use

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8UTRJA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you want a USB charging jack on your skate, you can dial that to about 5.2V with a multimeter and connect it to a USB jack in your enclosure and that’s it. No separate battery to charge.

That’s much, much better than powering it from your radio receiver (ESC) +5V pin, because any problems or malfunctions or drawing too much current, and you would blow your DRV chip that way, which would kill the ESC and you’d lose brakes as well.

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Well as Brian states, I bought the lower one. But no, I connected it to a 6s and it went poof. Had 5 of them and decided to try 3 times before contacting Amazon for answers. They requested I send back the blown units (seller wanted to “investigate”) and refunded me.
Was gonna use em for my diy television. Wanted to make it portable for my daughter in the car.

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is that an alien remote?

any +/- comments I likes the form factor

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@kook yes that’s my soon to be retired aps remote

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