This would basically be an ESC+ so it would serve the same purpose as the other available ESCs but also would allow higher voltages from what @fujio001 has said so far. It also seems likely that it will be compatible with more motor options which is something that isn’t clear when it comes to other ESCs.
(although I’ve found that they’re compatible with the other motors often used on pre-builts.)
I like the term ESC+.
Adjustable voltage - up to 14 S is probably going to be fine for the intended target market.
Adjustable current - up to 140 amps or 70 amps per channel. Maybe a future version can go higher.
Automatic motor detection and compatibility - currently only up to 150kv, should be up to 190kv.
All functions controlled from the remote.
Ergonomic remote.
Reliable.
Reasonable price.
Anything else needed for the beginner-intermediate DIY market?
Locked speed setting for those in shitty countries.
For once I am good at coming up with a name for something 
Feel free to use. I won’t charge anything unless you somehow make like a millionaire dollars on it. In that unlikely situation please pay me? 
I’d say make it able to run on 10s too since you didn’t mention that before and you started at 12s. I think having the adjustable current and other features in an advances menu would on the remote would be a good idea so that people who would normally just use an ESC wouldn’t get spooked by it, or wouldn’t accidentally set it too high without knowing what it did.
How / why does motor’s kv matter to the ESC?
RPM or eRPM I can understand, but why kv?
Or the issue really (e)RPM, and that translates to a kv limit at the supported voltage?
Sorry, the ESC can actually run 6s-14s.
I’m not sure either. I was informed that high KV motors could cause the ESC to overheat.
Use any PWM remote
As long as the remote can be replaced in case of an accident and the price is substantially cheaper than a comparable vesc, I could see this being an option I’d use for more casual builds. (By which I mean, not riding in traffic where reliability and safety features of vesc are a must.)
ppm remote support, not everyone need / want / have a uart remote, and I’m not leaving my puck behind
I’m interested, I always like alternatives. Vesc is great but I also use the newer hobbywing in other boards for simplicity. Don’t always need crazy power sometimes I just want to go for a ride on a simple board that goes well.
Having smart reverse is what the non vesc esc’s need, obviously onsra has asked for it to be programmed into that Orion esc.
If you’re assuming many folks are gonna be using one of these to upgrade their prebuilt, I think size and offering heatsink options/interfaces are super important.
For example, to put a Stormcore in a Hurricane, you currently need to source a heatsink only available through one member on the forum.
If your solution could drop in to most prebuilts on the market and offer more power and customizability without the hassle of VESC, I think that would fill a large hole in the market for those who are looking to upgrade their board, but aren’t willing to dive into DIY headfirst.
I also think customizable throttle curves would be a nice to have, especially through a polished mobile app. I see a lot of complaints on social media about boards being too touchy down low.
I think the programmable power curve is a great idea but may not be doable with just a remote interface. I will see what can be done.
Making the unit a simple drop in is really important. If it had mounting holes for common Hobbywing and LingYi ESCs, it should cover the vast majority of people that want to upgrade.
If this satisfies you don’t build a diy. Buy the board and be happy.
When I got into diy this was not an option anywhere
What are the biggest struggles for people when setting up a VESC currently?
I think the most annoying part is getting the connectors right, XT60 vs XT90, 5.5mm vs 4mm bullets on the motor, or converting from JST-PH to JST-GH on accessories, swapping TX/RX or stuff like that. Then figuring out how to physically and securely mount it.
The actual setup seems fairly straight forward. Connect. Run the motor wizard. Run the input wizard. Go for a ride. Maybe adjust current levels, throttle curves and fault times.
For those two things to be eliminated, I think you would need to sell a complete package that is already configured with a remote and motors… but somehow it would still need to mechanically fit into the 20+ prebuilt boards this would upgrade.
If it is to work with various motors and remotes, then you still have to do a motor calibration and you are kind of back to the same amount of setup as the VESC stuff… only with more limited and less advanced firmware.
Would this be a foc controller? Would it have current control or speed control?
Not knowing how to set the software up, or use the interfaces.
Believing everything VESC tells them.
Using a charge-only USB cable.
Not realizing that 99A may not be a suitable value for you.
Finding software bugs as an unknowing beta tester.
Not understanding what sensors do, or whether they are needed, and that sensors & HFI, for example, are exclusive and not used together.
Typing in numbers that are too high, and suffering failures.
Thinking bench behavior is indicative of loaded behavior.
User shouldn’t / wouldn’t care about the commutation algorithm.
Speed control is kinda terrible for vehicles IMHO. Always current & brake at a minimum IMHO. Hysteresis reverse would be even better and works on any remote.
Id say its more than that. There are so many versions of vesc and vesc tool floating out there nothing is consistent. In a how to do x scenario. Its just information overload. Which is great for people that know what they are doing but if you dont have a clue you second guess everything panic and either freeze and dont do anything or end up posting here. Like wtf does this acoroyonm stand for? And you’ll get anwser ah thats irrelevant ignore it… okay so why does it exisit?
I’d also say that “getting the software” is a huge struggle as well, as VESC intentionally blocks this process.
For example, where to find the version that you used last year when you set it up? VESC: 
The highest current coming from a Hobbywing is 70 amps or 35 per channel.
The highest current coming from a LingYi is 100 amps or 50 per channel. On top of that the response of the ESC/remote is not great.
I think 140 amps or 70 amps per channel is an upgrade. Also, the price is going to be quite a bit cheaper than a VESC and remote. I am thinking $239 is a fair price.
12s-14s, adjustable current and compatibility with a variety of motors is nice too.