So I still haven’t cracked it open to check the batt. It’s been so hot here I haven’t been skating much.I did get 10mm shorter belts though and they fit nicely! 350mm. I’m going to get some thicker gasket material so the enclosure has more room for wires and can fit on better. Half an inch or 3/4" dense foam and I’ll cut the shape out of that.
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Here’s the insides. Using some air conditioner unit foam to give some space for all my cables. I’ll add a ring of it along the flange as well.
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Holy crap that is a lot of cables
Must be a nutty amount of current you’re planning to draw
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The series connections are 14awg x4. Not sure the limit on that but I’m going to keep it under 200 amps total for now. 50 per esc which should already be more than enough.
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Oh 14 okay I thought it was 12 at first and I was like dang haha
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Yah, I’m like I’d rather do more small cables than three big ones for ease of soldering.
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Yeah makes sense
Damn not sure how I missed this till now, NICE job!!! It looks really good.
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Threw a new Puck and Robogotchi in today and letting loctite cure on the enclosure screws. I lost a couple of them down the road over time and I’d prefer to keep the rest for now lol. I also have a LTT smart bms ordered as the pack looks fine and I am still seeing that charge issue I think. Not really been riding it much because of this. Saying that I will have to give it a quick spin with the new remote later!
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Went for a short little ride, the longest it’s been on really; aside from a couple laps in the dirt in Portland before the motor pulleys detached themselves.
It’s smooth. So smooth when you put the throttle down! And quiet too! But I suppose everything’s quiet after running chains for two years.
It turns tight like my TrampBS but carves a bit different. Smooth lean and it stays there throughout the turn rather than pushing back like the Matrix II’s. Not that I couldn’t hold a turn with the channels but it’s a nice feeling.
The remote is nice too. Might have fucked up and programmed it on mode 2 instead of 3 but I’ll have to check when I put the BMS in. Has enough oomph for me now.
And unlike the MBTramp I can pull it from the front without dragging the back motor mounts nearly as much when I tow it in/out of the house. Doesn’t bottom out on the big speed bumps around here and no wheel bite but it is a little rough over the bumps. I really do like the trampa deck for those bumps and bouncing around on the terrain. It’s like constructive interference when ya bounce around in sync with the bumps in the road which is really quite fun but I’ve bounced myself off a couple times lol. None of that here it’s pretty stiff but that’s what the MTB is for!
Super liking this so far. Well worth the time and effort and more time and effort it still needs to bring the batt up to scratch.
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I dug into it to replace the BMS last night and was in for a surprise. The charging lead burned out which is why it wouldn’t charge. Idk if it took the BMS out with it but I will replace it anyways. Part of the reason it took me this long was because I was worried something bigger went down; like this.
Thankfully this seems to be the only damage. This kinda sussed me out so I’m going to rebuild the pack to a smaller 12s5p via N.E.S.E. modules and use ring terminals and bus bars to do it a lot more safely and securely. Definitely an eye opener. Maybe I’ll also do a small “booster” pack with more modules on top in the center with the rest of the cells for extra range but that’s not planned out for now. Just want to get this thing on the road at some point and with the way I’ve been riding I don’t need 40 miles of range.
Need to tear down my likely poorly built pack (i don’t think my welds or solder are that secure) and move it to the modules. In talks with Agnius about custom printing a slightly larger version for the larger than specified molicels.
I never really rode it much because of the charging issue. I’m mostly confident the cells themselves are damage free because of the near zero use and they’re still in acceptable voltage zones. When I rebuild I will attempt to keep cells of the same p group together because there is that out of spec group.
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When your red wires are burnt black I would presume an issue is present.
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I LOVE it! Someone should buy my six shooters and emulate, imitation is the most sincere form of flattery.
I don’t know what cheap promotions of my wheel set says about me. But I love the build. It’s a good thing I have no skills or I’d think having six shooters is a good reason to buy all the other stuff to build another board I don’t need .
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N.E.S.E modules are here and I tore all the nickel off the groups. They were on there pretty well and some stuck to the ends of the cells when I ripped it off (particularly the positive side) but nothing too bad so I did pretty well when I built it. I will need to clean up some of them, probably with a very quick hit on the Dremel sander wheel after snipping what remaines off. Have them taped up for now.
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Why would you tear these nice packs from a proper build to 12s5p, I understand you had messed up a XT-90 connector but its not really a good reason to downgrade to n.e.s.e modules, seems little bit like an overreaction to a different issue.
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Honestly I wasn’t sure how well it turned out. The soldering could have been much better and the not charging thing sketched me out. My welds were hot and my welder couldn’t handle the .2mm nickel I wanted originally and ended up with bent joints that would flex and maybe wear out over time. I still don’t know what caused the charge lead to melt. just wasn’t comfortable keeping it next to my bed the way it was. This is a lot safer and i am making the compromise by losing 3 cells each group. A flux deck is very large. There is more than enough room for a sleek booster pack up there if this isn’t enough for me.
I understand your motivation, but you should’ve just sandwiched stacking 0.1mm nickel if the welds felt bad with 0.2, also nickel from a good source always makes a difference, just take it slow and easy with the battery, I’ve done a bunch of batteries, some pretty, some not so much, but as long as you dont cheat on any of the steps it will be fine.
I would’ve retried spot welding and buy a better soldering iron and solder paste with some high quality fluxx, if you are still planning to run 4wd a 12s5p setup will potentially run harsh on the battery, even tho my theory is that it will be just fine with most high discharge batteries.
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We did it boys; short of a few loose enclosure screws. No one in their right mind could let Loctite sit for more than a few hours right?
It charges completely this time and the smart bms is pretty neat.
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Can’t really trust the LLT amp accuracy. Sometimes needs to be calibrated, best to check with something external to confirm that number.
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