'84 Ford Laser EV Conversion Project

Resistance can be measured with a multimeter and a power supply yes.

Inductance is kind of hairy, you either need an RCL meter or a very good power supply and oscilloscope.

@Movation agreed on the inefficiency. Also think the rim design is kinda bad.

@Gamer43 I’ll go out and buy an RCL meter today. WIll check in later with results. How am I test? Check those values for each of the phases with each other?

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Probe across two phases, line to neutral resistance and inductance will be half those values.

Make sure to calibrate the resistance for the resistance in the probe wires.

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MG1 resistance 800milliohm
MG2 resistance 1ohm
MG1 inductance A-B 4.08mH A-C 2.27mH B-C 2.29mH
MG2inductance A-B 8.37mH A-C 3.83mH B-C 8.25mH

What’s the diagnosis? Too much for our little vescs to handle?

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Yes, the high resistance means that the target current thresholds for measuring resistance need too high of a voltage, higher voltage than the battery pack.

And the inductance is so high that the vesc’s method of measuring it produces too small of a signal to be measured accurately.

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So there’s definitely no way to be able to run these with a vesc?

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I don’t think so, unfortunately. Might have better luck with a kelly controller?

Should be buying the Prius inverter board soon. Will start testing with the actual hardware when that happens

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On another note I spent some time learning how to weld today. I was able to get far more consistent start on the electrode and had more success in general. At this point I’ve gnarled up the metal kinda bad but oh well. Should have the transmission mount fully done in the next week

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Thats the way to learn :sunglasses: Just keep on laying beads until its second nature. There’s a ton of technical stuff to welding, but a lot of the basics can be figured out by “does it look solid? Y/N.”

That said I would still recommend have someone qualifed look over any structural welds you do, just to be safe :wink:

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Don’t worry my welds won’t be going into any finished vehicle this is just a test mockup of the mount to prove that it works

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Probably for the best :sweat_smile: I barely trust my own welds to hold themselves up sitting on a table

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Here’s the beginning of the mount. I’m a dumb fuck and didn’t realise that galvanised is way harder to weld, and 1.6mm thick steel basically evaporates even at 40A. Will be getting thicker non-galvanised stuff this week to make life easier and stronger

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I have acquired 120v worth of lead acid from UPS batteries. All cells are currently at dead voltages but I will see is any are salvageable. I should be able to acquire more packs and hopefully end up with a high voltage traction pack for testing. I don’t want progress to be stopped by lack of batteries so this will be the current solution. Will buy batteries once I’m 100% sure what I want.

I have better steel now. Have all day Wednesday to make a new mount

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I wonder if for the range of that pack, you’d get more distance tethered to an extension cord and your charger :rofl:

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I wish that were possible! Would simplify things so much

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So here you can see the mount that will connect the two sides of the transmission mounts. The transmission will bolt to this from the bell housing side using bars welded vertically to the mount. The other end of the transmission has another mounting point that will be connected to the left of the engine bay. Need to go out and buy some new drill bits tomorrow but should have the transmission mounted

Would it be a crime to electric convert a Datto…? :roll_eyes:

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just a heads up you gotta grind the galvanization off before you weld it, the gas will give you zinc poisoning

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Will be starting from scratch tomorrow with regular steel. I was a big dumb dumb with using that shit. It was all the hardware store sells and I didn’t know any better

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