I’m not sure how well tested they are, but flipsky stocks some pretty huge motors.
In my own testing, you don’t get any real benefits from more than 6380 if you’re using belts, you kinda need gears or chains. I think thats been said though
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Why do you think so? We had an improvement when we changed form 6374 to 6384. Same thing or even bigger the difference from 6384 to 6396. Don’t know how it is with 8085 to 80100 but the guys who did it loved the crazy torque on those. But mabye you are right when you say 6380ish is the most efficient or best trade of weight/power/costs.
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Hmm, perhaps my inexperience at the time but when I rode a board with 6380s it was practically able to do a wheelie and full throttle just span out the wheels. Was 8" tires, dual VESC 6 and I think 130kv? Still had a decent top speed, somewhere around 35mph
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What gear ratio? I can only do 15-18 tops with 8 inch 1:6.25 and 130kv 6374 lol
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With ripped shoes?
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Leopard 8072?
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18:66T I think, maybe 16:66. 12S, and it was probably 130~140kv as iirc I did get over 30 by some margin.
Either way, it was torquey as all hell and meant more for offroading.
I’m sure it’s a great motor and I would like to test it, but I don’t think its more powerful than the 6396 or Maytech 8085.
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I spent all cyber Monday looking at 6396s and various 80xxs. I bought nothing in the end bc I decided margaritas and skating were more fun.
Any one else second this equivalence (80xx ≈ 6396)? I don’t want to play the mount in compatibility game that @Andy87 has mentioned in old posts.
I also don’t want to give maytech anymore monies.
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Freerchobby Model Co.
Reacher Technology Co.
Saite Motor Co.
They all average quality. Bearings, magnets, no silicone phase wires etc. So be aware.
Same with APS motors.
On the old forum one guy made a nice summary after switching from
6384 170kV to 8085 200kV to 80100 130kV.
(Don’t nail me on the kV, might be a bit different but think it was in this row)
6384 to 8085 -> not worth the change
80100 to 8085 noticeable difference (also due to lower kV) but motors getting hot, so hot that one motor shorted due to melting isolation.
How that can happen? No temp sensors, so no thermal cut off and if the riser doesn’t mind 
He as well said that for him the added weight with the 80100 in the end are not really helpful and it’s more fun to ride with 6384 motors.
I fully agree with all that.
Not wanna hold anybody back from going with 80xxx motors thou.
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Thank you. I am decided.
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8085 (APS with big bearing) is not a big upgrade from 6384, so yes definitely 6396/63100 comes close to it.
, someone could trip and fall into that.Same here 
It’s not about the extra pooowa it’s just all about the optic 
63100 seems to be not enough to fill it up thou
Maybe inrunner than?
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I may or may not have spent time trying to make this work in my head at work today. Dual diag. I just don’t want to mess with castle creations Esc’s and 8s packs.
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APS 80100 requires major rework if you want to use them daily, only the bearings cost more than one motor itself.
Regarding power forget the belts, they will be stripped the moment you will press throttle. Starting torque is crazy if not direct connection like gears/chains I can’t imagine something like belts holding up.
EDIT: I mean esk8 level belts not 30mm width ones or bigger ;D
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Uhh @Arzamenable it does not seem like you would need to run CC esc’s or 8s with those since they are 200kv… Unless you wanna push 500-800kv at 250+ amps a motor…
With standard smaller motors below 6380, low kv high voptage is more efficient as to not heat tye motors but as you get a fat stator in the larger motors running high amps and gearing down becomes a lot less of a problem
Wouldn’t say so.
80xx motors get even faster hot than 63xx motors.
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