All metal. Take a wild guess what I want the final plates made from.
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Only one bank of motors has blue tape. Unacceptable. Police called.
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-Hand cut aluminum spacers.
-fresh rubber and bearings.
-finished a completely unrelated a123 lifepo pack.
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Don’t judge me for the PLA front motor plates. At least it isn’t conductive.
Whole lotta weirdness using laptop vesc tool to setup escs. After an hour of duckery, I added a metr.pro to the mix and I was finally able to get foc detection on that very unlucky vesc ID 13.
@rpasichnyk the metr app could recognize that there were 8 canbus nodes. Could only show 4 data readouts. 
Jkjk, if I really need that many live streaming data sets, I’ll get out my computer. 
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This is all I ever cared about doing for the last year. More than marriage or residency or retirement. Just this.
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Next bigger step is running 8 motors on 8 unities in super single mode. 
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No, the next step is to do 16WD to keep up with Moore’s law. We have full two years for that though. 
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Now swap the VESCs for 75/300 singles, run 8x of them and use 8x ebike mid drives.
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Where’s da burnoutz!?
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This looks so scary lmao. When is test ride coming?
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I’m going to take off the front 3d printed plates and ride the rear 4 this evening.
Won’t really be new. 4 motors same board like always, just all the cans in the rear. Probably will be shitty and I’ll skip belt teeth.
Cam rollers aren’t ideal just yet.
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You pretty much have traction control because if you apply too much torque it’ll instantly skip teeth
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This specific issue with belts is half the reason why this project is still going after 1 yr plus.
Anyway, second plate order is a go. I am not Tapping any more holes.
I’m not going to try any fancy materials or the anodized TI-CF sandwich of my dreams shown below. Sticking to 7k series aluminums.
Anyone have a better looking 44 redember STL than this lazy photogrammetry attempt?
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here is me procrastinating and not doing what I should be doing.
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Got a few questions:
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why do the positions of both motors need to be adjustable? Couldn’t you just have one slidable and the other fixed so there’s points of failure I.e. less probability something will slide and bring the belt out of tension when you don’t mean for it to?
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I’m sure you’ve explained this somewhere here, so feel free to ignore it if you don’t want to answer again, but why not use gears for this? I’m by no means an expert, so maybe you’ll be able to get it to working perfectly, but I feel like when you’re dealing with pulleys this small it’s going to be hard to avoid skipping in this configuration.
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If you’re set on avoiding gears, what about chains? In my experience they are pretty good in higher torque situations even if the sprockets involved are smaller. What’s more is maybe (since they are narrower) you could use 2 chains per wheel and just have a single chain/motor.
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have you run the stress analysis to see how much the 1/8” aluminum will deflect due to the forces associated with the belt? I’m not saying this will definitely be an issue, but in the past I’ve had belt/chain skipping problems which were at least in part caused by the shafts associated with the sprockets/pulleys (or their supporting structures) bending a bit under load resulting in bad tensioning resulting in skipping. Maybe a spring loaded tensioner could help fix issues like this as well as potential stretching of the belt as it wears, but In your position is probably be more inclined to just make things a bit more rigid.
I know I’m being a bit critical - I’m not trying to be an asshole, Im just curious about your design decisions. Lmk if you feel I’m out of line and I’ll tone it down.
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That’s some robbery going on with the cost for tapping
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Fr, at that rate one could buy all the necessary tools/materials plus some extra taps and cut parts in case some taps beak and still probably pay less…
1 Like