63-100 motor groupbuy interest test USA

The final paragraph of your post about the amperage being so much higher despite the minal size difference.

Stator length matters more than can length. The can is misleading is what i mean. Ive dissasembled numerous 6355 motors and the stator is always incredibly small looking. Surprisingly a 5060 motor is slightly larger in volume than a 6355.

This 63100 has a ton of extra stator room despite the small difference in can size11

yes ok about the length is clear, but it´s the same wires inside. how can the windings once handle 80A and once 120A. It´s a general question i didn´t understood about motor rating yet.

specific to your specs i don´t get than why the motor is rated to 4400W only.
120A143,7V = 6216A
It´s another thing I have seen in different motor specs, that things just don´t fit together.

APS rates them with 80A but 4500W :tipping_hand_man:
confusing stuff…

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I’ll take 2. Do they have to be 130kv?

Bruno told me via mail the 63100 has no room for sensors.

Or to be exact there is no room left in the can for the sensor pcb APS use, so it’s a DIY or encoder job for these.

Done right(hardened/encoders) I bet they are the sweet spot for large & powerful, but not obscenely heavy motors.

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I ask myself what would be the advantage performance wise of this over a leopard 8072. they pretty much about the same weight and should deliver the same power as well.

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I would say neither are worth it over a well made 6374 but that’s just me :man_shrugging:

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Longer motor cans tend to be more efficient because of the flatter mangnetic flux curve across the stator -> fewer losses on the ends

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APS does custom KV setups

What about the static of longer stators.
You fix the stator only on the front and the bearings which support the shaft a more far away from each other. I could assume that manufacturing tolerances are more likely lead to the point that the rotating bell could hit the stator. Especially with a belt or chain set up where the shaft is pulled into the driving direction.

in the case that really happens, which I doubt, you would need to support the load of the shaft with an extra bearing inside the motor-mount (Ollinboard style) or with a bearing in the extension of the shaft (after the pulley).

i thought similar about that but not after the pulley, more on the other end of the can, but that would need an special shaft like the 80xx motors and an special motor mount.

it´s just 3 small bearing which hold the shaft and bell in place. if one of them does not sit right it´s already enough to make the bell wobbling.

or you’d need to change the bearings/bearing seat to accomodate something like this:

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Damn! Are you using a bms in that 12s4p?

So an update on these motors, alien power systems offered a competitive price and i will be purchasing and torture testing 2 before continuing. I worry about the magnets

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it appears alienpowersystems website is broken atm. can anyone confirm this by opening it? thanks.

Looks like he screwed up the website, some old urls work, I guess it’s a technical glitch

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What magnets are they using. I think that more manufacturers should mention this as it determines how hard you can push them before you cook the motor lol.

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I don’t think the magnets are the mature issues, but the way they fixed to the bell.

@Dirt_Bag if you go with the aps version it also means they come unsenored, right?

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Yes it does. But they mentioned them having sensors if needed.

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Ok, but @magharees said the aps don’t have place for the pcb inside according to Bruno. That’s why I was wondering. Even if they sell sensor pcbs we also need a place to install them :sweat_smile: