I use 1:6.2 ratio with 190kv motors. Gives me a top speed of 24mph. Going up hills isn’t a problem on 8" tires if it isn’t wet, tends to slip a bit if wet but traction control keeps it fairly predictable. If you want more traction you can go wider or up a size as well.
If it was geared for 25mph it would be hilarious I’m sure.
What would happen?
Downsides of 4x4 is the weight and cost of extra drivetrains motors and escs.
Yes indeed… what motors and kv are you using? Would you recommend 4x 6355s or 4x 6374s? Geared for 25mph.
Do you also have a 2wd, and if so which is your favorite of the 2?
I’m in La Mesa, not many hills here. Mostly flat, 10-20%. There’s some nice areas I could go on at Mission George, with steeper hills 30% of dirt and gravel if you’ve been. Would love to just ride through, hopefully if it’s legal, which I haven’t checked yet…
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I thought people have been saying the torque is there, but the traction is not. I get ADD sometimes, so sorry if I missed it
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I’ve got quite a few boards. All do their job and I love them all like my children. 
My 4x4 has 190kv 6355s. It already climbs trees, with a lower gearing it would be quiiick.
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nice, that’s about what I would like. Thanks for the insight. What teeth pulleys are you using to get that ratio?
or up a size as well.
Size of what?
Every parent always has a favorite though, you can tell us, they won’t know
So 6374 is overkill or good for that extra insurance would you say?
Size up of tire. Switch to a 9" or even 10" tire. The difference in contact patch and roll is staggering.
(Not my picture, but that’s a regular 8" tire and a regular 9" tire)
I used a 10 tooth and 62 chain sprocket. Chain generally supports lower teeth counts better because they’re far harder to skip.
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For me, it’s overkill.
Here some of them are, lined up. When the tracks get steep, loose and bumpy the 4x4 is the one. The lightweight mtb for leaving the ground and chucking about and the carver for tearing up the pavement. The carver tops out at not much over 25 and it has oodles of grunt.
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Very nice. From the descriptions, the 4wd rings closer to what I want. Leaving the ground sounds lots of fun, but dangerous. The lightweight is the one up top? What is the 4th one down below then?
Wow what a difference 1 inch can make (twss)
I used a 10 tooth and 62 chain sprocket. Chain generally supports lower teeth counts better because they’re far harder to skip.
Nice, where did you get them at? I was thinking going with chains for better torque translation and avoid skipping too, that 10t is just a bonus
That’s the carver again but with grip tape on it! Lightweight one in the middle.
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I literally got them off Amazon. There was also a 70 tooth sprocket as well if you really want torque, but that starts to get too large and I feel it reduces your ground clearance by too much.
I could have figure that out, now I see the 96…
Do you have a build thread for the 4wd, I’d very much like to take a look at it. Specially those motor guards look solid, it’s very nice
Is a 70t belt pulley smaller than a 70t sprocket? If I could get 9:1, or 90:10 sprockets, the 4th setup with the inn runner motors might just work. As long as there is enough ground clearance on 8" wheels left
Could put one 56233 innrunner on each end so it’s 4wd. Not sure how having single drive on both axels would work though, I could balance it out by having each be across from each other diagonally. If the pulley could be connected to the whole axel and not just one wheel, like in a car, that would be ideal. I saw one guy on youtube do this, but it was custom made
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This chart should help. 90 tooth is 7.3" in diameter, so you’re basically riding on the chain at that point 
9:81 is marginally better, but don’t plan on going offroad without getting larger tires.
Torque doesnt come from the size of the motor. that’s irrelevant as long as the motors stays cool. it comes from the KV & wheel size/gearing * amps. (voltage affects topspeed but you can gear that down and appart from losses, low voltage or high doesnt matter all that much, well it does but…)
My money is you wont be able to stand on 4wd 6355 motor board geared for 50-60kmh if you have a decent battery and escs capable of pushing high amps.
if I where you I would do a regular 2wd 6374, spend my money on some gear dives decent battery and esc’s and pimp up the rest of your board, instead of going 4wd and cutting corners. I would also gear it for 50-60kmh because you will probably like that more than a jerky trigger sensitive overpowered board.
Down the road you can always go 4wd if you really want to but, save the headache for now.
you can get a Meepo AWD for 799, its a piece of shit fyi.
or you can spend 6300 on a 2wd Kaly NYC or 5000+ on a Lacroix.
MoeStooge and his race boards are 8s running 2wd.
belts are iffy going off-road btw, fine (not really) on clean streets.
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It has to do with inductance. Worst case you can offset it with capacitors but I don’t know enough about that. All I know is if your wires runs between the battery and ESC are relatively short (less than a meter let’s say) then you should be good
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Without getting too complicated I would go with option 2…
It sounds like you made your decision to go 4wd even before you asked any questions. For your budget and requirements 2wd is the right decision. I could not stay on my 2wd Mountainboard without bindings. 4wd would be completely stupid without it being a Mountainboard with bindings. And bindings are not very smart if you want to avoid being hurt at all cost.
Please try out a board from someone so you get a better idea of how those boards really behave. To me it seems like you completely underestimate the grip and performance of boards.
If you want to go 4wd just to flex that’s completely understandable. Then you really only need 6355 motors and cheap 50A Vesc’s to not blow your budget.
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