It’s not so much overkill, but rather it’s going to take a longer time to make and cost more to produce an inferior product. Not to mention that regular FDM printed panels aren’t strictly air or watertight without treatment due to microscopic gaps formed between the layers. It may be worth taking a look at vacuum forming your own custom fiberglass or kydex enclosures. Not as easy as pressing a button, but will yield a far more durable and waterproof product.
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Anyone have a template for the TBDD adapter bolt pattern? I need to print a abec adapter, the elofty is really close but slightly off. Something I can import and compare to? I’m a noob at 3d design
Nevermind almost done making something
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I have a Prusa mk3s. I love 3d printing and have been printing for a while. For an upcoming build I’m printing a 4 box enclosure like this. It will be 205mm by 165mmx4 my printer can print 250x200x200 but my board is narrow so only to 205 wide. Saves me a lot from buying an enclosure and I can make it exactly how I want. Did I mention I love 3d printing?
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I’m having problems printing my modified stl. I’m not sure if it’s my printer being funky. Anyone have time to try a print?
Tbddkegel.stl (343.5 KB)
I just imported it into my slicer and it like you’ve got some leftover geometry still in there that will appear in the print, but nothing that should make it unprintable. I’d say printer fuckiness is plausible.
Yeah it printed ok over the wierd bottom right to the base of the abec forks then it stops. I exported just the model from tinkercad not the entire project with that file so maybe it will help. I’m trying again after I noticed I was exporting the whole project before.
Definitely just seen my printer do suff I’ve never seen before…randomly stop mid print, also randomly print sideways for a line then continue. Then it stopped and just rumbled lol. ugh
I cleaned it up a bit and slicer is down to 2 errors from 28 before, so hopefully good now.
Such a relief to get this printed. I can finish this now. Just 20% infill on this already snapped one by hand, I’m thinking 100% infill will be ok.
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I think just increasing the number of perimeters to maybe 5 or 6 (or even 8) should be enough. It’s the thinner prongs that need to be stronger anyway, not the base.
Also you can try reducing the part cooling for increased strength. I’ve noticed that nylons in particular are very sensitive to being overcooled and losing a lot of layer adhesion strength. Just be careful to set a reasonable minimum layer time, or things will get a little too soft and melty.
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Anyone have recommendation on a nice starter 3D printer. Budget is around $300-$400. interested in printing with PETG.
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I still use my three Ender 3 printers for PETG, Although I hear good things about the new Elegoo (Neptune 2) FDM printer for only $160.
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I’ve done dozens of PETG spools on Ender 3 and its still good
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One more for ender 3.
Just added our 5th one to the family.
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Wow, the Elegoo (Neptune 2) looks good, a Slightly bigger printing size but the Ender 3 has a lot of extras with a beginner’s interface. I think I’m gonna pull the trigger on the Ender 3. thx guys
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Let us know when you get it and I could give some tips on using PETG.
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I am looking to get into 3D printing with a similar budget to @drone001 ($300-$400). It sounds like the Ender 3 still the to machine beat when it comes to value. What are the “essential upgrades” for that model? Is it possible to print in nylon or TPU successfully with an Ender 3? @Venom121212
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Just put my order in got a BLTouch for free. I got the Ender 3 V2.
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Some people have had luck with tpu and no upgrades but I call BS. For something that stretchy, a direct drive setup is really necessary for good accuracy.
Nylon is a no as well as the stock hotend isn’t rated at the temp required.
The I’ve upgraded 2 of my ender 3 printers to direct drive with a bmg extruder, smaller stepper motor, v6 hotend, a larger fan, and some 3d printed parts and put $60 into that. If I wanted another direct drive, I’d probably go for the artillery sidewinder when it’s on a sale. The upgrades on the ender 3 weren’t hard or anything but not a big enough price difference to justify.
The glass bed is my first purchase with every ender 3.
This guy has been a solid performer for me. Make sure it’s one that doesn’t have a huge logo in the middle of the bed.
Next up I usually replace the stock extruder with a bmg clone. It’s geared and drives the filament from both sides instead of one side just being a grooved bearing.
Stock:
Geared:
This one was the only bad clone I’ve had and worn down and crooked and now retired.
This will require you to recalibrate your esteps since the gear ratio is different now but that takes only 5 minutes and is super easy.
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People end up modding their ender 3 like crazy till it becomes like a Prusa mk3s. Just get one off the bat. Save yourself reliability headaches and upgrade frustrations. I love my mk3s. I’ve had no issues at all. I print pla abs petg tpu no upgrades. It’s the most future proof if you want to make changes to be able to do anything more without needing a different printer
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They’re a little outside my budget. I’ll do some comparisons…see what I can see.
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