yep in the uk but shipping costs shouldnt be to high
get in touch whenever you want
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Nice
BTW I think I read somewhere that 100% infill was not was not necessarily the strongest option
Is that right?
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Yeah, it actually fails more rapidly than 85% in my opinion because it has no room for the smallest amount of flex.
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G’day dudes,
I’ve read through this entire post and also searched thing verse in its entirety looking for a top-mounted battery enclosure for a mountain board build I’m working on. I was after something sleek and simple that could fit a 12S6P 21700 setup - I don’t want to use a Peli on my Haero Bro, I get they’re practical although I can’t get my head around how they look.
Is this something that can be 3D printed? I know I could always use a conduit box although having something built to size is preferred. I did a quick SketchUp of what I was after and I want to know if anyone has done anything similar? Will it hold up?
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I personally don’t think printing a large box is worth it. It’s a very simple structure that doesn’t really take advantage of what 3D printing offers, and you would get far stronger results piecing together six sides of flat material than printing an entire box, because you don’t get the weak axis from the layer lines. Plus, your box is at the upper limits of print bed sizes, so you’re going to need a printer with a relatively large bed. The popular Ender 3 only has a usable bed of 220x220mm for example, and slightly less when you factor in the clips at the edge holding the bed on the heating element.
@frankthedragon Yea, using a complex machine to print out a simple structure is totally overkill. Although when we look at all the effort we put into our decks to make them look and run to perfection I think we can do better than Peli cases in the looks department. Trampa are the only ones I know of that make anything half decent although for me the costs would be too high, converting the POUND to AUD sux for us Aussies.
I’m here looking for alternatives, there are plenty of places offering 3D printing services nowadays. I’ve had some under-mounted enclosures quoted in the past from thing verse for my first build and the prices I was getting were lower than what I expected.
If there are folks out there printing under-mount enclosures there must be someone that’s given a top mount enclosure a go on their 3D printer.
I’ve also reached out to a few local guys in my area that I’ve used in the past and sent me designs to them. I’ll loop everyone here in on what I end up doing.
Mike
It’s not so much overkill, but rather it’s going to take a longer time to make and cost more to produce an inferior product. Not to mention that regular FDM printed panels aren’t strictly air or watertight without treatment due to microscopic gaps formed between the layers. It may be worth taking a look at vacuum forming your own custom fiberglass or kydex enclosures. Not as easy as pressing a button, but will yield a far more durable and waterproof product.
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Anyone have a template for the TBDD adapter bolt pattern? I need to print a abec adapter, the elofty is really close but slightly off. Something I can import and compare to? I’m a noob at 3d design
Nevermind almost done making something
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I have a Prusa mk3s. I love 3d printing and have been printing for a while. For an upcoming build I’m printing a 4 box enclosure like this. It will be 205mm by 165mmx4 my printer can print 250x200x200 but my board is narrow so only to 205 wide. Saves me a lot from buying an enclosure and I can make it exactly how I want. Did I mention I love 3d printing?
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I’m having problems printing my modified stl. I’m not sure if it’s my printer being funky. Anyone have time to try a print?
Tbddkegel.stl (343.5 KB)
I just imported it into my slicer and it like you’ve got some leftover geometry still in there that will appear in the print, but nothing that should make it unprintable. I’d say printer fuckiness is plausible.
Yeah it printed ok over the wierd bottom right to the base of the abec forks then it stops. I exported just the model from tinkercad not the entire project with that file so maybe it will help. I’m trying again after I noticed I was exporting the whole project before.
Definitely just seen my printer do suff I’ve never seen before…randomly stop mid print, also randomly print sideways for a line then continue. Then it stopped and just rumbled lol. ugh
I cleaned it up a bit and slicer is down to 2 errors from 28 before, so hopefully good now.
Such a relief to get this printed. I can finish this now. Just 20% infill on this already snapped one by hand, I’m thinking 100% infill will be ok.
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I think just increasing the number of perimeters to maybe 5 or 6 (or even 8) should be enough. It’s the thinner prongs that need to be stronger anyway, not the base.
Also you can try reducing the part cooling for increased strength. I’ve noticed that nylons in particular are very sensitive to being overcooled and losing a lot of layer adhesion strength. Just be careful to set a reasonable minimum layer time, or things will get a little too soft and melty.
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Anyone have recommendation on a nice starter 3D printer. Budget is around $300-$400. interested in printing with PETG.
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I still use my three Ender 3 printers for PETG, Although I hear good things about the new Elegoo (Neptune 2) FDM printer for only $160.
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I’ve done dozens of PETG spools on Ender 3 and its still good
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One more for ender 3.
Just added our 5th one to the family.
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Wow, the Elegoo (Neptune 2) looks good, a Slightly bigger printing size but the Ender 3 has a lot of extras with a beginner’s interface. I think I’m gonna pull the trigger on the Ender 3. thx guys
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