oh, ninja edit. Wasn’t there when i posted.
Will buy one tomorrow and hope it gets better.
i agree with that, except when it won’t stick and ruin your whole print 
So far, your profile looks promising!
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How would i fix uneven Horizontal expansion?
It seems that one side is smaller/larger than the other.
On the other side i think my calipers are just crap.
Something like Y is 20.15 and X is 20.25
I still suspect my calipers. I ordered a new one because i get all sorts of reading. 20.05, 20.23, 20.08, 20.15 depending on where
There are a couple possible answers. The exact amount of filament that gets extruded at each point along the wall isn’t perfectly identical. It depends on many factors, among them the pressure inside the extruder, the speed and acceleration of the motion system, and the filament drive system. These small inconsistencies result in uneven line width, and thus dimensional changes in the finished part.
Things like linear advance or Klipper can help alleviate some of the pressure related stuff and motion system stuff respectively, but they’re not perfect.
Long story short you can do all kinds of tweaking and tuning, but you’ll never get it perfect and 0.2mm difference across X and Y is actually pretty fantastic IMO, especially for functional prints that don’t need to be visually perfect.
If you have a consistently skewed size on one axis vs the other (like X is always 2% bigger than Y) you can tune that out either in the printer firmware, or in the slicer.
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Well i still have issues i have no solution for.
I leveled my bed with the CHEP gcode, all fine.
dropped this in cura and sliced it
the nozzle is way high up, resulting in no bed adhesion.
i drop this is cura and slice it
it scratches my heatbed
same profile, both placed in the middle and sliced maybe 5 minutes apart with NO change in cura settings.
That is crazy, doesn’t make sense. Unless your end stop switch is loose. Then this would happen.
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I agree, it’s gotta be z axis wiring related.
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forgive my ignorance but what is the function of this?
You can remove the print head without having to deal with removing the wires that go to the main board. It takes away all the pain when changing thermistor, heater cartridge and sometime stepper motor.
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So is it bad if the silicone sock for the heater block hardened and crumbled off? Can I still run it fine without it?
It is bad, I just scraped a crappy stock one off yesterday. The hotend heating block will cool more and can throw you errors if it swings temps too much trying to accommodate. Get some nice ones off Amazon and keep a few spares just in case.
I advocate for keeping spare nozzles, thermistor, and heating cartridge if you don’t want any down time.
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(puts heater block condom in shopping cart)
Thanks!
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Nice! congratulations. Told you, just a matter of keep printing and trying new things.
Fixed it for you
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You mean everything subh taught me haha. I’m just trying to field the easy questions so he can tackle the harder ones. It really is a ton of failing prints and tweaking one setting at a time until it clicks.
Ps fuck @SeanHacker and his magical knack for 3d printing.
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A big help was your profile, i think that tweaked most of the bullshit i did on mine.
One other thing i changed was the bed leveling test.
Before i used the one from CHEP and was really happy until i had the issue that the Z-offset was different for prints sliced with the same profile.
This is what i used to level my bed
and this is what i use now
compared to the CHEP one it doesn’t stop on corners to adjust so you have to adjust on the go.
The printer is still far from perfect since i still have to dial in that he stops ignoring Z-hop or doesn’t scrape over existing parts when moving across.
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What i still can’t figure out is horizontal expansion.
I’ve played with it but can’t get it right.
The issue is that both axis have different values.
Print should be 90x32mm but is 89.50x32.15mm
By adjusting the expansion with 0.25mm i should get 90mm but on the other axis 32.65 because thats adjusted too.
Update: i took the X axis apart, removed the top bar and the complete printer arm and tightened some screws. The right side of Y axis was about 2 degrees lower and had wiggle room. Currently leveling the bed again.
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