so if the pla can hold I think it can hold the petg more, I will try to make a solid block with 100% filler
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You don’t need to go 100% infill with PETG, that will just waste filament and time. I’d go with extra perimeters (5 or 6), and maybe bump up the extrusion width to 0.6mm or so, with ~30-40% infill. You’ll get very close to the same compressive strength, and save a ton of time and material.
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Finally got some parts in. Just waiting on PCB’s. I will do ~25 sets test run of the NEMA17 motor breakout board. Got myself a soldering jig printed.
Here is my magnetic print tool with PCB:
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How does it happen that 2 prints from a the same profile get printed at a different bed levels?
I sliced a calibration cube where the nozzle was way up above the bed and a circle which was way below pushing down on the bed and scratching it.
e: it did it again. I just printed a Bed leveling test across the heatbed and had no issues. As soon as i print the cube for example it prints way higher up. Print touching the bed in the slicer and uses the exact same profile and settings as the leveling print
e2: my printer prints a test line before starting the print (you cann see it to the left of the skirt) that line is exactly the height i leveled it to, but once the actual print starts the printer head seems to go up a notch. CUrrently using @mishrasubhransu profile.
I have some additional z offset. Set that to zero. See this is why you can’t use someone else’s profile and expect the same results. You have to try different settings and tune it to your printer.
Edit: I just read it again. You are using the same profile. Weird. I don’t know what to think.
Edit 2: the first line is not affected by z offset in my profile, the main prints are.
currently printing something usable.
changed initial layer height to 0.25
reduced the initial layer travel speed to 40
initial layer speed 10
and something else i think
Are you sure your new glass plate is level?
Looks good. What about the dimensions? If dimensions are correct then increase the wall overlap %. If dimensions are smaller increase flow.
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Anyone of you have a good kegel core pulley in 32T but with bolts and not just pushfit ?
If you have some that worked for you !
And Petg or abs only ? Or could pla be alright, given its hardness
The right thread to ask that in, is CAD request thread.
What i still don’t understand is how the slicer does some stupid shit like this.
i want to print 2 washer type of things with a brim.
the printer starts with the brim and goes to the first layer…alright
but THEN he goes to the middle and draws the inner ring next instead from outer rings until they reach the smallest point.
this move is exactly why most of my prints (especially circles fail) because they have no good adhesion/ grip or whatever.
after he is done with the inner layer, he goes back out and makes the 2nd wall
Try setting the pattern to concentric and change the wall printing optimization setting and see if it changes.
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well it depends where i measure. but mostly 20ish mm. Sometimes 20.05, on other spots 20.23mm but i think thats due to the Z alignment?
Z axis is off the most. it sits at about 19.73mm
Nope. It ignores:
Optimize wall printing order
Outer befire inner wall
line type concentric
still the same
here is the file if you want to test it
Swanky Albar(1).stl (25.1 KB)
so to make it clear. I want it to print
Brim
1x Outer wall red
2x infill green
1x inner wall red.
and not:
brim
1x outer wall red
1x inner wall red
2x infill.
the main issue seems to be that cura doesn’t see them as outer and inner wall but rather both as outer wall.
I’ll try in a minute but I believe cura does this natively. It needs to overlap the infill onto the perimeters, not the other way. At least that’s the way it defaults all my prints. I will play around and see.
Ah my nozzle size is different so it only gives one infill line.
Cura defaults to walls before infill. You can change it to infill before walls but that’s still not the order you want.
You could trick it by setting a larger number of walls though maybe.
It will always print outer walls first and then inner walls and infill. What you call inner walls is not what cura means by inner walls.
It shouldn’t matter what order it lays down the walls. You need to have good bed adhesion even though you just lay down the filament. You thin a thin layer of diluted PVA glue or hair spray. I like glue because it doesn’t go everywhere and mess with moving components.
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Yup, both red lines are outer walls, so no way of fixing it.
Like I said above, the order doesn’t matter. Actually printing outer walls first is preferred for dimensional accuracy.
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