I would use TPU
nylon would be the best
??
i think i’m going to rebuild the ender 3…It can’t be that i always have problems with something. There hasn’t been a print that worked on the first try.
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How long have you had it? Might be worth it fully replacing and upgrading the hotend.
January 2019. Is there a way to see how many hours it printed? The printer never got stressed, no big projects, no super long runtimes etc.
I think i’m even at only my 3rd spool of 1kg filament.
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Can you video it failing like that? I know it’s annoying to sit and watch but that’s awful. No one has that much bad luck surely…
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I can set up my phone later when the print is finished. I let it continue to print, it just melted the parts, pressed them down and printed over them. Curious how it looks when finished.
E: One thing i noticed is that the filament puffs up after going over the Grid. Infill type is Grid and once the nozzle leaves the empty scare the filament in the square puffs up
@Venom121212
Now even more is wrong.
here you can see the puffed blocks and for whatever reason different endresults on that final layer.
Here the first layer connecting the top parts doesn’t seem to have worked well. Probably make it easy to rip off.
i had the issue of not properly connected lines on a different print too. Just as if the printer skipped the wall and only did the infill
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Reduce flow as much as possible. Trust me. And the material is petg right? Then also increase the z-offset so that filament is laid on top as opposed to being shoved into the bed.
its exactly calibrated as it should 100mm are 100mm, still reduce flow?
Filament is PLA.
Bed was leveled just before starting the print.
Will look into what my z-offset is set to
Yes. Still reduce flow in steps of 5% and see the effect on the print. But I would first add some z offset and do a test print.
Looking for some advice, need to get these direct drive adapters printed, but I’m not sure what material. Shapeways is quoting me about $27 ea depending on material. Appreciate any help.
Those adapters are thin. Nylon( alloy 910) or maybe ABS. Shapeways is sintered nylon…
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Thanks for the info. Do you think Shapeways is ok or should I try and find a member to pay to make them.
Either is fine. Whichever is cheaper.
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Ooof , they want $51 ea for nylon. They offer a few different ones but I didn’t see 910 or abs.
Maybe it’s time to buy a printer 
Would either of these be ok ?
the versatile plastic is nylon. And seems like both of them are the same nylon. 
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Went for it , found a coupon so it wasn’t so bad.
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Yes I’ve done them out of abs and even PLA works fine as a hollow riser so long as you have your printer well tuned, agree with others TPU although squishy won’t break and nylon has some give but also won’t crack will at worst slightly deform over time.
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