Yah easy to have one problem create another problem when it comes to 3D printer mechanics have had some issues because of things being over constrained and getting bound (basically had leadscrews stuck spinning in bearings at the top of the machine but created some binding due to being slightly out from concentric because of coupler not aligning the lead screw with the center of motor shaft entirely). No real advice but just commiserating 
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I had this exact issue driving me nuts for weeks. My frame was so out of whack, my lead screw would slip or bind causing layer shifts completely randomly if I overextruded at all.
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What model you have?
4 x ender 3s
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ahhh.
One problem i do sometimes have is corners lifting up. Especially if i don’t use a brim.
Temp is 230/65 with PLA
Currently testing 210/55
Corners lifting often times happens on the very first layer when the nozzle does the 90° turn to.
Or what sometimes happens is that the very first line it lays lifts up and attached to the nozzle getting dragged behind, if its not getting dragged it’s just curled up.
here you can see how it curled up.
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Try sandin the buildplate with some steelwool very lightly, I have to do this once every few monts to keep the prints sticking nicely to th PEI sheet. Sometimes the print just start to lift up grazy, so after cleaning with alcohol and sanding a bit it sticks like a charm again.
Glass bed 
While we are at it. I feel like i can remove prints from the glass bed easier when it hot than the stock matt that came with the ender .
Use a thin layer of white PVA glue. It will stick well. To remove it I apply a shearing impulse with a small hammer
But apart from bed adhesion, if you use smaller layer heights then it will work well.
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This is a super common problem with 90 degree turns/corners. When modelling my own parts my last step is always to add a bunch of small bevels/curves to any turns that would be 90 degree or more changes in direction for the printer since this will greatly reduce the chance of a corner pulling up (get rid of the corner). Alternative if using someone else’s model I’ll just add brim like you mentioned to overcome any warping at corners, I don’t see this much with pla but using pei sheet too so things stick pretty well. If you are using z-probe or otherwise could get your nozzle a bit closer to the bed or in slicer settings set the first layer extrusion flow to 150-250% of normal so it makes an extra fat sticky first layer (also typically I go like 5-10 degrees hotter on first layer than the rest, more gooey/sticky and I don’t care about overhangs/drips on the first layer really).
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Removing the corners (or rather smoothing them out) also helps to reduce or eliminate “ringing” or echos from turning a corner and the printer slightly overshooting and bouncing as it’s trying to achieve a linear path.
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The pulling up on corners occurs because as the filament cools it contracts and at a corner it is getting pulled in, in two directions and so tends to want to curl, with a sharp corner there isn’t a lot of material at the tip/point of the corner for it to “hold down” against the contracting plastic further towards the center of the model/shape.
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I just had someone comment on reddit about my wrong dimensions.
Here is what he said:
Sorry, I meant for the X, Y, Z stepper motors? The same thing applies, you want to make sure that your axis actually moves 20mm when the g-code instructs it to.
The calculation is the same as with the extruder steps:
(ideal_length * current_steps_per_mm) / measured_length = new_steps_per_mm
For example, if your Y axis is 20.20mm instead of 20mm and your current Y steps/mm is 80 steps, you’d want to set your Y steps to 79.2:
(20mm * 80steps) / 20.20mm = 79.2steps (adjust your config to this)
i don’t think i calibrated that, since i never had the need for it to be precise to the mm (or at least i knew how to fix it with tools) Gonna give this a shot tomorrow
Didn’t know they needed to be calibrated. But that’s great to know.
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Wtf that’s not english
Heh I’m actually pretty adept at messing with marlin firmware so have been through quite a few setups that were complete guess and check for the entire setup basically (beyond crappy instructions for the print controller board at the time which was Gt2560 now would recommend the skr 1.3 or I guess anything better).
Anywho e-step calibration is important if you have some non standard pulleys or things are heavily distorted can adjust those values but for minor changes adjusting the extrusion multiplier or the flow rate will reduce the line width slightly too (if just extra size from bulging lines).
I thought you were an engineer lmao
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yea I don’t understand most the things i do as long as i get paid 
LMAO oh boy. Civil?
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