Superglue.
1 Like
Shoot forgot to add that I have a big area to cover so I need something that requires a long set time 
If you make the kit so it’s plug and play with connector crimps, I’d happily pay more. Downtime is not an option here either and I just ran/rewrapped one of my machine 5 times tracking down an issue that kept popping back up. This is brilliant.
1 Like
All will be precrimped and provided. You will only need 4 longer screws for the motor as there are different lengths of the motor and it would be complicated for me to carry all.
2 Likes
Two-part epoxy then. Original JB Weld is a tried and true favorite, just ask @b264. Other epoxies are available too of course, with all their attendant pros and cons.
1 Like
JB Weld 8265-S Original Steel always works for me but it is magnetic, so if that’s an issue you should pick a different one.
I would avoid any epoxy with the word “quick” or “fast” on the packaging.
Also mix until you think it’s mixed well. Then mix 3 times longer than you already mixed. And make sure the ratios are correct.
3 Likes
Is there a non-magnetic blend? I’m actually unsure if it being magnetic would matter and will do more research but in the case it does, what other epoxy mixture would you recommend?
How about wood filament and pva?
1 Like
Already printed 
Wood doesn’t provide me too much right now as I kind of dig the plastic look and at 2KG of plastic, wood is going to more expensive and won’t make a major difference when it comes to acoustics.
I did use PVA for my last enclosure and it had small leaks so I wanted some sort of adhesive that is gap filling and sealing. Maybe I didn’t use enough or clamp down properly but wanted to try epoxy or some other glue before going back to PVA.
Were I to do this again though, I would try and use wood filament on a smaller enclosure to test it out first.
Why you did not print it as whole? Placing it upright would require minimal bridging and it would print quiet well
1 Like
Very cool! I am definitely interested.
I did consider that but there’s over hang in every direction if I didn’t split the enclosure. There’s still about 90mm of bridging it would have to do when placed in the most optimal direction and I’m not sure that my printer would do that very successful. Also every face has a slight fillet except for the flat of the print
Then probably ABS would been your best option. Some acetone would weld that solid. PETG is bad for any glue.
2 Likes
I have joined PETG with MEK. But the joined parts remaining flexible for a long time. Eventually it dries out and becomes hard but it takes a longtime…
1 Like
Ahh that’s good to know, I was going to print structural pieces and join them with glue but I’ll probably opt for bolts and nuts then
1 Like
Honestly any medium or slow cure two-part epoxy will work pretty well. Can be as easy as the noname hardware store stuff, or West System, or Raka, or any number of other types. Just don’t use anything “5-minute” or similar. The slower the cure, the stronger it generally is.
1 Like
This guy is my go to on buying specific adhesive products. His testing is pretty thorough.
This one was a real shock to me
3 Likes
1 Like
Spoiler alert, it loses 
2 Likes
1 Like