Actually I use Acetone to join ABS Prints
Superglue for PLA and PETG
And some epoxy might also work depending on the type.
I had good luck with Steel Epoxy (the grey one with metal particles).
You could also try Epoxy Putty if you have to fill bigger holes / gaps
I am thinking of buying this $30 well rated dehumidifier inside my dry box so that I can dry my moisture soaked filament better.
Using just the silicone dessicant I get a 14% relative humidity. It keeps filaments dry but not enough to dry moisture ladden filaments.
I bought a Husky 2 door cabinet for growing shrooms which I installed a custom temp, light, and humidity control system. It’s perfect for that kind of stuff 
Beware, it will not get below 15% humidity.
I have to maintain a dry room at work because our test strips are humidity sensitive after at certain stages. We have 2 x 70 pint (1120 fl oz each) dehumidifiers running 24/7 and it stays around 10-12%. The room is only 150 Sq ft for reference, like a small bedroom.
I’ve got a large ammo can as a dry box with a couple pounds of silica gel in it, and according to my humidity test strip it’s solidly below 10%.
I did have to vigorously dry the silica gel when I got it though.
I am going to put in the drybox. Why do you think it won’t go below 15%? It just passes air over a pieltier cooler that condenses water and stores it. What do you think is the limiting factor?
Interesting! I have an electronic one, it should be more accurate right?
It depends, there are very cheap and very expensive hygrometers with widely varying accuracy and calibration. The only way to be sure would be to expose it to an environment of known low humidity and see if it agrees.
The vapor pressure of the water in your condensate tank, among other things. Also the dew point at the temperature the peltier can achieve.
Have to print some ABS Parts… this is my high end ABS 3D Printing Enclosure to keep the temperature nice and cosy.
Works like a charm
Ah inside the box. I read over that. You will still have a tank of water sitting inside your dry box at that point as it dehumidifies. It might force its way out to equalize with the rest of the dry box. It is generally just a plastic tray of water. Those machines are meant to store water in tanks for dumping out later.
I’d check and see if it has a leur lock or press fit tubing outlet option so it could be draining to a sink or other container outside of the dry box.
not really sure - hard to judge by the photos but looks like you are pretty close to the bed and thats why you get a very thin first layer ? But should be good for adhesion
Thats weird… did you clean your bed properly ?
I think it’s the bumpiness of the bed, either due to surface defect or due to uneven deposit of glue or hair spray.
Check your X and Y axis rollers for problems. Usually when you see a this stretching across at an angle on a flat layer. It can be something as simple as a glob of something on the extrusion, or something under your bed if you’re using flexible print surface. That, or you’ve got a really warped bed, I’d go through bed-leveling a few times btw, each time you adjust one corner, it affects the others, and you’ll usually test the center and find it low, but if you go across making tiny adjustments after the major ones, multiple times, you’ll find it even out, based on the way the bed pivots. That said it’s still not unusual to have a somewhat dished bed.
Also, make sure you’re doing leveling with the bed heated. With your axis are too loose, or too tight though, you’ll see stuff like this, although it’s more pronounced that I usually see.
Loctite has a series of Structural Acrylic adhesives (Speedbonder 324 and 326), with 1 and 5 minute work times, that have similar cured strengths to high end 24 hour cure epoxies like Acraglas or G-Flex. They’re not cheap, but a little goes a long way. The 1 minute stuff definitely requires some technique, but it’s incredible stuff in terms of strength and heat resistance. They’re anaerobic cure adhesives also, which is nice because anything that squirts out of the joint doesn’t cure hard and have to be removed with heavy mechanical work (scraping, grinding, etc), which is a problem with slow cure epoxies since even heavily clamped flat surfaces tend to ooze hours later and often go unnoticed until you have to deal with cured globs. Unfortunately that also means these adhesives aren’t good for open bonding or areas where good part adhesion isn’t an option. Not sure how PETG compatible they are but I can give them a shot. They’re exceptional for bonding phenolics and other mixed materials to metal however. They do require a primer applied to one or both surfaces, but the primer can be applied up to 30 days before hand. Anyway, just a tool to add to the mental toolbox. Not very well known but extremely high performance.
One big factor to consider though for bonding polymers, is the rigidity of the parts, most adhesives excel in shear strength but are pretty miserable in peel. Flexing parts away from a joint puts that into peel, even if it isn’t very perceptible. Acraglas is functionally much stronger than G-Flex, but it’s very rigid, which is why G-Flex is often the best epoxy on the market for many real world applications, but also why the high heat tolerance and rock solid non-flexible hold of Acraglas is the best choice for bedding rifles. But yeah, if you had to have one premium two part slow cure epoxy on the shelf, West Systems G-Flex is hard to beat, although there are some comparable options for less money if you know where to find them, especially if you’re buying bulk and adjust mixing ratios to application.
Another interesting adhesive worth quick mention, Starbond (which is the only place anyone should buy Cyanoacrylate (superglue) adhesives from in the US btw), has a really performant rubberized (flexible) CA mix in a few viscosities, including the near water thin (capillary) variety. They market them for flexible applications like speaker foam installation and they hold up very well. Available in black especially. It’s killer good stuff.
Any of you guys have a recommendation for a performant, reasonable cost nylon that’s generally available in the US and relatively print friendly (as much as is possible with nylon)? Hopefully something that doesn’t run as costly as the Taulman product line?
Also, what are your opinions about the various carbon fiber (the milled stuff, not powdered) reinforced filaments, either PETG, PLA, ABS, etc? I know they’re tough on nozzles, not a problem for me.
I’ve used Taulman 645 and Novamid ID 1030 and I like both. The Taulman is a little more flexible, and the Novamid has a somewhat lower printing temperature if I remember correctly. Honestly for the performance, I don’t think the price for either was excessive.
One of the most highly-praised nylon derivative filaments that I haven’t yet tried is PolyMaker PolyMide CoPA, which is apparently some ridiculously tough and strong stuff, with very little warping. It is $60 for a 750g spool though, so that stings a little.
One of my favorite features of Nylons is the fact that you can dye them easily using standard readily available cloth dyes like Rit.
Yeah I guess I’m forgetting that the basic nylons from Taulman aren’t that bad, just have those $100+ rolls of exotics stuck in my head heh… Thanks for the info, I’ll look into the others you mentioned. Cheers!
