hmm try changing the nozzle to see if that helps they r quite cheap anyway
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which printer do you have?
I think i have a spare. I’ll test that. The last result comes closest or even is at the point where no gaps are present.
@Timmy Ender 3
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i have ender 3 pro, no issues so far
I designed and printed some motor pulley covers for the TB motor mounts that are compatible with the AT wheels. They don’t cover that much because of the angle of the belts but they are better than nothing. There will probably be improved versions coming soon. I can send the STL if anyone wants it. There are better ones for thane on thingiverse though.
Yeah at this point I would change the nozzle and give the entire printer an one over.
Make sure there are no loose screws, belt, hotend, tubes, gear, etc
One of my ender 3s keeps hitting thermal runaway.
I can see it preheating fine (temp only jumps ±2°), runs pid tuning fine, will heat bed and hotend fine, but hits thermal runaway over and over again when printing.
It happens randomly in the print, usually early but I had one get 50% and fail. Every time, the thermistor temp just starts falling out of nowhere.
I’ve tried turning off the cooling fan even though it’s been running for over a year on the same settings without issue.
I replaced the thermistor 3 times yesterday and finally got it to print 2 prints last night.
Printed one thing this morning and the print was a bit uglier than normal. Went to print another thing and thermal runaway again 40% of the way through.
My best guess atm is power supply failing and maybe the heating cartridge isn’t getting enough current. I tried measuring live voltages yesterday and all looked normal while heating (24v) maintaining temp (~12v) and cooling (0v).
Unfortunately I don’t have long enough leads to measure while printing and space is tight. Trying to ghetto rig wires without letting them touch is my next step.
@Venom121212 Yeah, the heater cartridge might be failing or, like you said, the power supply. Try changing the heater cartridge…
Do you have a sock on the heater block? If not, then it’s losing heat and therefore taking longer to heat and that’s why the firmware triggers the runaway.
I do but it’s in poor condition, I’ll see if I a spare laying around. It’s not struggling to heat at all, it just hits a sharp dropping off point where it acts like I turned the heater off entirely. Thermistor registers hand temp, hot air gun temp, etc so it points to the heating element or its supply 
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I don’t think that makes sense because with 105% flow you are having more gaps than with 100%. It points to things being wrong somewhere else. Try bumping flow even further to analyze it.
Is the extruder spring tension good? Like is it extruding certain length of filament reliably Everytime? You can check it by marking the filament, at the entrance to extruder, at 10 cm apart and extrude 10cm. And see if it’s reliably extruding.
Changed it. Now i have to re level my heatbed. Will do some testing after that
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A microphone lamp I made for my wife.
She is in broadcasting, it’s an icon in her industry.
It’s painted with a stainless steel colored spray paint. It’s not perfect but she likes it.
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Anyone got any experience with polymaker polymide CoPa and how it performs vs 910? I need to restock some nylon and I’m not sure if im ready so switch over, got the printer dialed for 910 and all that too.
I have been keeping a loose eye on resin printers for a while now. is it worth having both fdm and resin printers? im thinking a cheap 200-300 dollar printer and some of the tough resins like Siraya Blu are actually cheaper than my usual 910 that I use for demanding stuff.
I had an issue like this with my hypercube and it turned out to be a bad connection in the heater wires that caused it to disconnect sometimes when the print head was moving around, I replaced the cartridge and the wires between it and the main board and it fixed it. I think it matches with the problem you have because its a issue developed over a long time and as you said it was running for over a year.
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Yep exactly what I came here to declare as a victory. Close to where the heating cartridge cable ties to the hotend (under the braided sleeve) I discovered this.
I butt spliced the break, heat shrinked it to prevent movement, and added some heat shrink to the other wire as well to prolong the same fate.
It is about to start its first print. Thank you for the help!
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Kind of hard to tell but the first layer prints perfect. First layer in on the right side of picture. All the walls touch and it is nicely squished. Layer two has gaps in the infill. Any ideas?
Attaching my settings for the flow also.
thanks.
Can you show the screenshot for print speed?
I bet the infill is being nprinted at double the rate as regular walls. So I would reduce the infill print speed to 3/4th of current value and see if that made a difference
That’s insanely fast. I don’t think you are meant to print that fast without linear advance. If you already have linear advance you need to calibrate it further.
I print at 100 infill with walls at 60 for regular prints.
For parts needing tight tolerance I print at 80 infill and 40 walls.
Print fast is not just a matter of having a volcano nozzle and melting plastic, it’s also about being able to command a flow and get that flow at the end while being at the correct position on the part. I don’t know what processor and Marlin firmware your printer has, but that also matters.