Do you have a quick cost estimate for casual readers?
Looks pretty cool. Some pics here.
Yeah, from their discord FAQ estimates are $400, $1000 and $1400 for V0, V1.8 and V2.4.
The V0 is 120mm^3 volume. If I’m honest that fits 80% of the parts that I print.
would PP filament be suitable for an enclosure
I am not a fan of the Voron as it moves the XY gantry in the Z direction instead of the bed. You have to raise a lot of weight up and down. Also I don’t see any worm gears in the BOM, so wouldn’t the XY gantry just crash down every time the Z motors are switched off?
I built a HEVO inspired printer with linear rails, and it was cheaper and easier to build and tune than a Voron. You can find a semi complete build thread on in my profile. I still have plans to upgrade it, mainly the Z axis, with a nicer cast aluminium bed with silicone heater (I now use a thin PCB bed), and 3x leadscrews for true auto leveling).
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Search “flow” in settings and increase inner and outer walls flow % bit by bit and test each time. If your top sueface also has gaps, then you’ll have to do the same for top walls too.
So for people using a DIY drybox I found the following ptfe holder much simpler than using a PTFE adapter and screwing that to the box. Also the angle of the ptfe tube reduces the friction. You attach it to the outside of the box using double sided tape.
ptfe_tube_securer.STL (3.4 MB)
And yes, I am aware what it looks like.
Old and new
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There are some trade offs here. Having a fixed bed has a lot of advantages too. With a moving bed other then the base weight of the bed as you print the bed gets heavier, personally I want to try a printer where the bed doesn’t move at all because I haven’t yet. There are 3 types of Voron. Some of them do move the bed up and down instead of the gantry.
V0 is a traditional coreXY design with the bed moving along the Z axis
V1 is a traditional coreXY design where the bed moves along the Z axis
V2 is a modified coreXY design with a static bed and a gantry that moves along the Z axis
The Z drives are geared 5:1 so they stay up when power is lost, they will drop a bit (so no power loss recovery) but not crash down.
I will check out your build thread!
My biggest obstacle right now is having to wait 2+ months for delivery from China. I don’t think I’m that patient.
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I feel ya on the waiting thing.
I’ve been considering beginning to build a Jubilee, but the wait times are going to be awful, especially now with lockdowns in effect.
What i noticed is that speeds aren’t translated the same.
these are my speed settings
but the wall still prints way faster than the rest.
What about your acceleration and jerk?
You need to have more options enabled/visible to see jerk and acceleration settings
I’d be guessing the different acceleration/jerk rates is what you’re not taking into account for your speed discrepancy. Speed alone isn’t going to linearly translate into actual velocity of the print head
That seems way too high for wall flow not to change things. Check the gcode or previous. Is it slicing correctly?
I have my first batch of 5x prints queued up with this technique…
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i found the speed problem, i had a setting hidden that still was at 45mm/s
what i still haven’t fixed is the gaps on the top layer. It is just the top layer. I’ve tried Skin overlap, increased flow, changed line width but i still get the gaps.
Edit : i “fixed” it by increasing top/bottom layer flow to 150% but that doesn’t seem right.
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Is that a picture of the top?
yes
5char
Anybody ever run PID autotune from the printer itself, not from a computer interface?
Is the gap you’re referring to right above the hole? Your top surface looks over extruded. There shouldn’t be such big ridges
Is this only happening on small pieces?