The price was starting to drop…but COVID-19 outstripped the supply.
I’ll seriously consider one of these lol
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This is the second one I printed and the first one had no issues. What would cause this random layer shift?
Belt tension? Steeper current settings?
If not correct, they can trigger randomly.
i think you need one of these
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What do you guys think of the E3D Hemera Direct Drive kit? The reviews I’m seeing are declaring it the “king of extrudes”
Does anyone know the cheapest route to get a CNC router that would allow me to cut Aluminum for drive train projects? Or is there another route that is not with a CNC?
On paper looks awesome. Lightweight and smallest possible filament path.
Check this review out:
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So I use the same profile for both prints. When printing the CHEP cube, it does not overextrude in the corners. Then using the same profile I print something else but now it overextrudes in the corners. Anyone got an idea as to why?
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I always fought this in Marlin firmware…you can minimize it by experimenting with X and Y jerk settings on the printer. This was the biggest reason that I switched to Klipper firmware as it handles corners with a bit more accuracy.
Most likely you see more over extrusion on this print because it is large enough to allow for higher velocities. The cube is so small that the printer cannot reach full speed for X & Y. A higher jerk setting may allow the printer to slam on the brakes and change direction more abruptly, resulting in less corner bulge. Hope this helps!
WOW. This is super helpful. I have been struggling with this forever and I thought I was the only one. I will try to turn up the jerk setting and see if it fixes things. What about acceleration control? I read that if I turn this value up, then the extruder spends less time standing still and that could possibly help also.
What is the highest jerk value you think I could input. I believe default values are around 8 mm/s.
Do not know anything about this Klipper firmware you are talking about. Can I convert my printer to this? Another question, what about linear advance? Just heard about this, don’t know much about this either.
thanks.
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Clipper needs additional hardware and also you’ll need to change firmware which I remember you didn’t want to do. Try the acceleration and jerk settings. If they don’t work well then I would recommend to try linear advance.
But I honestly think the fault is somewhere else. So many people have fantastic prints with ender 3 with just an upgraded extruder (the most common source of issues) and a bit of playing with flow, temp and retraction.
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Will play with those settings. I am not using an ender 3. I have the artillery sidewinder x1.
Thanks.
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Cura question: I have optic end stops on my printer. Is there a function in cura that allows me to start the first layer lower or higher than normal? I know in Slicer there is this function.
Second question: Is it possible for a different color of the same brand filament to print differently? I am using hatchbox PLA and the white prints great. The black, first layer seems to not squish as much and sticks less to the bed. Also, the black seems to stick or adhere less to itself. I guess it could be just me.
thanks.
There a big difference it Hatchbox black and white personally.
For black, I have to turn nozzle up a bit, sometimes flow.
For white, it’s the opposite. Nozzle at lower temp, lower flow. It likes to ooze much more.
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Thanks, good to know I am not crazy.
Search cura plugin z offset.
Does anybody have an idea what causes the rather loud sound when moving quickly?
sounds so rattly.
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Maybe the belt rubbing on something on the edges, I had it once and when I adjusted the roller a bit it was fine.
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Frame vibrating at resonant frequency…
Massively reduced when you slip in squishy foam under the frame.
Have you guys heard of the Voron printers? I’ve been doing some research on them: http://vorondesign.com/voron2.4
It’s a community driven 3d printer(s) project. They have multiple models with different sizes and even extruders. They are all CoreXY printers. The community is very active and the devs behind it as well.
Need to get a lot of parts to build it, see the BOM
You also need to print a lot of parts in ABS for the printer.
Thinking of building one instead of continuing to upgrade my CR10S Pro. It must be nice to live in china to work on these types of projects. it would be so much easier to source all the parts.
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