Yup, this is the longest that I’ve stuck with a hot end setup 
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Anyone try to move a Wannaho i3 (makerselect v2) to MKS1.4 (ramps) with DRV8825 drivers? I am trying to get marlin to work but all of the axes have issues when I try to do even a simple jog (sounds like their coging).
- Checked firmware for correct Driver notation (Uncommented default steppers for each axis, and replaced with DRV8825).
- Checked Firmware for correct board configuration (MKS 1.3-1.4 board.h notation).
- Checked stepper resolution (from 16 to 32, therefore changed x y and z axis from 80,80,400 to 160, 160, 800).
- Checked Vref from ground to pot (on each axis) - tried the entire range with no difference.
- Tone tested each wire from each servo - connectivity is there.
- Checked baud rate as well and verified that this is correctly set to 115200.
At a loss on what to do at this point. Any thoughts?
Printed the item below at 60 mm/s. When I printed the CHEP cube, it was at 50 mm/s. This is with 3 top layers, with its flow rate at 100, might have to bump this up. Prints counter-clockwise. Overall I think it looks pretty good, just a few spots with some weird blobs. Is that just due to the volcano hot end? I hear since the nozzle holds so much volume, it is hard to control the occasional blobs?
In all photos, it prints left to right.
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Ahhhhh volcano. Why did you never mention that? You have a really big melt zone. So the standard settings won’t work well. That’s why you still had so much stringing even with so much retraction and direct drive.
From what I understand volcano is awesome to have when you have a bigger nozzle. And you can dump plastic mad fast. But because of the big melt zone the visual quality is bound to be affected. So don’t worry about it.
Why do you say that? This looks good to me. Also what made you increase the flow? Why not use the settings you found by printing the cube?
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All the settings are the same as the cube except I bumped the speed up to 60 mm/s from 50. If you look at the picture below. The top layer is under-extruded. It’s still doing this weird thing where a no top layer cube all the walls are perfect. Then when I add 3 top layers, the first wall the inner and outer wall does not touch. Only happens when I add the top layer.
Just more top layers then. I always use 4 and it turns out well.
If you are bumping up the flow only do it for top walls, not side walls. Side walls already look overextruded.
i’m going to print a battery enclosure for my board.
And I just got my first printer, an ender 3 pro.
Is nylon a good filament for an enclosure? I’m thinking of using 230 Nylon from Taulman. It only needs a nozzle temp of 230°C and no heated bed (even though i have one)
If you are talking about NESE, then nylon 230 will be too flexible. Alloy 910 is suitable.
If you are are talking about enclosures for battery or esc then yeah, it will be good.
@mishrasubhransu @agentdev @Venom121212 @SeanHacker
What should I do to stop these little bumps from showing up?
And the Slight stringing to go away
Turn flow down for bumps, try coasting if that doesn’t work out.
For stringing, reducing print temp a bit works for me.
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If it’s not structural, increase retraction and reduce temp. This looks like what happens when it’s not extracting enough at the start/end of a layer.
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To add to the above:
- Does your outer wall look OK?
- what is your seam preference setting set to?
- when you preview the file, are these the start and stop points of layers?
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Me too
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Lol, I’m too lazy to go check the settings right now 
- Wall wipe distance: 0.2mm
- Coasting.
- Increase retraction.
Do it one by one and in order. And then you can combine them based on their effect or reject them.
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Thanks man! Will do! Thanks everyone!
What’s nese? I also saw that in a title on thingiverse