Have you seen this thread?
well ya but that thing did not exist last year when I did all that. but sure the main things I struggled with was a semi broken bl-touch yanky connection to my wify through a raspberry pi and lack of memory on the main board. but yeah,
1 Like
Belts are nosier running over PETG? That’s very interesting. Any science behind this?
the surface is rougher than injection molded and nicely machined aluminum and more friction than printed nylon, just a wild guess.
Are you sure its not a teeth shape or miss alignment issue. that is honestly the only time where have noticed differences in sound between pulleys.
I think he meant that PETG makes more noise than ABS/PLA.
1 Like
Anyone got any recommendations for a glue stick?
Forget the glue stick, I have been using hairspray for the longest time and its very very good
2 Likes
3D printer noob here.
I’m using an ender 3. Seems to be working fine untill the last month where the extruder stepper motor seems to skip/tick when pushing the filament into the bowden tube. I then bumped up my temp from 200 to about 240 and it made it better but it does skip once in awhile.
On that note, any recommended settings for PLA+?
2 Likes
I’m on this! I had binding issues specifically with really rough filaments and really waxy filaments (both pla+). Normal, semi-matte feeling filaments print great (inland is my favorite and never ever has an issue).
Try using a 0.6 nozzle. I just switched from the stock 0.4 to a 0.6 and those filaments will bind/tick significantly less and still print fine. I have a good profile of settings I like to use I can send over shortly.
Thank you @mishrasubhransu for all the help again, he got me set up originally with this recipe.
3 Likes
I see, i don’t have a smaller nozzle so off to ‘add to cart’ i go!
Should i spend a bit more and get a steel nozzle?
No brass is good, I think you need a larger nozzle. Ender 3 stock nozzle is 0.4mm. I recommend 0.6mm.
2 Likes
Ender 3 Recommendations
The only paid upgrades I’ve done and consider necessary are:
glass bed from Amazon ~$20
metal extruder kit from Amazon ~$12
upgraded PTFE tube ~$13 for a length of it
Microswiss hotend only if you want to print fancy filaments like nylon
Everything else has been small 3d printed upgrades for convenience.
There’s a guy in YouTube whose channel is called teaching tech. His voice sucks but he does a lot of good ender 3 specific videos with good detail. Definitely do the bullseye fan upgrade. I recommend tightening the bed level springs almost all the way before starting the initial leveling. I’ve found it helped a lot with not having to re level all the time. Firstly tweak the Cura settings a bunch. It’s daunting, there are so many settings and lots of them are hidden by default. Here are some main ones I set:
Print Layer heights: 0.12, 0.18, 0.24, etc for a 0.6mm nozzle (increments in the diameter of your nozzle basically). I like 0.24 for speed, 0.18 for quality.
Infill pattern: cubic (changed to this because this supports the Z-axis more)
Print temp: 210-218C for most pla or pla+
Bed temp: 60C
Retraction Distance: 6.5mm, my other machine did better at 6.4mm (4mm for micro Swiss).
Retraction Speed: 25mm/s
Print speed: 60mm/s (or as per filament)
Combing mode: within infill (seems to get less artifacts on outside walls)
Find the setting for slowing down the print speed on the bottom layer. This one really helped my prints to stick better. I print the first 2 layers slow and first one with fan off for a good stick.
Ironing is a cool feature that makes all face up edges get a nice smoothing over. I turn that on with 10% flow for a clean finish.
When that glass bed cools, things don’t even pop off. They detach themselves.
I highly recommend you get the bondtech dual drive or it’s clone from triangle labs. Will never have extruder issues again. You can use it with your bowden setup.
If you are okay with little bit of electrical wiring and connection do the bondtech+direct drive setup. Nothing like it. You can print Nylon TPU and pretty much anything that you like.
3 Likes
I second this.
Glue stick and pva glue should only be reserved for nylon. Because cleanup is not as easy.
2 Likes
I use 210c on the extruder and 60c on the bed when printing with pla+
1 Like
Ok. I have been using hair spray, but it has gotten all over the place. It works well, was just looking for a cleaner solution.
I take the plate off the bed to do mine, auto levelling though so I could understand why you might not want to do that
So j only use it once in a while(every 10 print or so). But I do spray a layer of IPA, which dissolves the hairspray residue and spreads it uniformly, in a way recharging it. Try that.
Also when I do spray hairspray, I use cardboard box cutout to restrict where the spray goes.
IPS: isopropyl alcohol.
3 Likes
Wuuuuut, never thought about that - cracking idea!
2 Likes
I know a lot of sites recommend superglue for pla prints. I’ve been using gorilla glue gel and it’s been working pretty well. I went to restock today and noticed a loctite alternative for plastics. Being a fan of loctite, I opted for it. Plus it was almost twice the volume for a buck more and made sense.
Anyone use this stuff?