Yes, greatest shit every.
Works like a charm for me
1 Like
What build plate temp and flow rate do you guys like for petg? I’m using bowden and the top post doesn’t have that section yet.
I am using 0 fan speed for the first layer. 100% at layer 2. Any suggestions welcome.
@mishrasubhransu, I’ve searched this forum and thingiverse with no luck finding an stl file for those beautiful wheel hubs you have printed here. Is this a file you can share with me?
1 Like
I haven’t shared them, because I might sell them in aluminum at some point in the future.
But even then, these can only be printed in Alloy 910 filament of stronger. These hubs printed in regulay filament will break right away.
For regular filament, check the eLofty thread, there is a hub model there.
1 Like
Got it, yeah, I’ve downloaded those files, and was just collecting all my options before I chose what to print and play with.
1 Like
I have been printing NESE 2s4p modules on an Ender 3 and have started having some issues that I need some help with. I printed 3 or 4 with decent results, but the last print the corner came up and I had to abort the print. A couple thoughts I had: 1) PETG needs to be dried. I am not sure this leads to adhesion issues or not. The prints still look good otherwise. 2) I need a better build plate. I am still using the stock ender 3 plate with binder clips and just use IPA to clean it. So far, that has worked well for PETG, but these parts are bigger than other things I have printed in the past. What build plate do you recommend for Ender 3? I am US if that makes a difference for suppliers.
Glass plate. Even mirror glassplate will do. A thin layer of hairspray every 10 prints or so.
But before every print I just redissolve all the residual hairspray and spread it around uniformly by just spraying a thin layer of IPA.
When you say “a thin layer”, do you mean you would spray over the plate for a few seconds?
When I was researching it I read that you practically soak the build plate with hairspray.
1 Like
For me just a uniform coverage in 1or 2 pass is enough. It’s basically fine mist that settles down. Runny liquid might work too, but no point overdoing it.
1 Like
What bed temperature do you use for petg printing? I have an ender 3 and have been using 70C, but I think that might be a little high.
So as to not toot my own horn too much,
I know we have a lot of new members trying to get printing. In the past I have made a guide in classic wXP-YT-tutorial style, and figured I’d share the wealth with the larger community. hope this helps.
2 Likes
For printing petg I have a cr10s using prusa slicer 250 hotend and 90 bed temp. It all depends on the speed your printing, is the part warping if so maybe turn the temp up
2 Likes
So the print temp should be enough to enable sticking. Anything beyond is unnecessary and problematic. Mine is at 60 for PETG. 45 for Nylon.
1 Like
Print PETG with 85 bed (prusa default setting) and 240C (hotter than recommended or at the edge of it) for the first layer. Getting it to stick does require a lot of bed level tweaks for bigger parts but I don’t use hairspray or anything just pei coated spring steel bed.
Note there is risk of pulling the pei off the build sheet when not using any adhesive layer if you print the first layer too close to the bed, did pull off the pei on a couple of beds 
1 Like
Figured I’d share. Testing some 5M pulleys and push fit abec hubs I drew up. This is the 40T pulley. Gonna try with this proline carbon fiber polycarbonate.
Print settings: 0.4mm nozzle: 0.2mm layer height, 0.5 layer width, 6 walls, 999 bottom layers, 275 extruder, 80 bed, fan speed 30% consistent, retraction 1.0mm at 50mm/sec. Print speed 60mm/s
This stuff prints beautifully. Layer lines practically vanish at 0.2.
4 Likes
Will moisture in PETG filament cause warping and bed adhesion issues? I have seen prints from “wet” filament cause bubble popping, white smoke and rough looking prints, but not anything specific about warping. My print still looks good, it just is pulling off of the bed late in the print.
What bed temp and what spray or adhesive do you use?
1 Like
I was using the stock ender 3 bed (not sure what it is), but just went to a glass bed with hairspray based on your recommendation. Bed temp 60 or 70C. I am using the same PETG spool and it has been out of the vacuum bag for about a week. I am printing a 2s4p NESE base and lid at the same time. When it gets to 1/2-3/4 of the thickness one end starts lifting. I haven’t printed such long parts in the past and haven’t had adhesion issues.
Bring the nozzle a hair closer to the build plate. That will solve it. Basically give all 4 bed leveling screws same amount of rotation.
That is the only problem I can think of.
Make sure the bed isn’t anywhere drafty in general I haven’t had much warping with PETG was far more of a problem with abs but I’ve gotten smarter about rounding corners and things to help avoid the contraction while cooling from peeling things up. Anyway if you can put some insulating foam or cardboard around the printer it can help reduce drafts (just keep an eye on things and make sure flammable stuff is clear of heating elements or anything that can spark). Can also try bumping nozzle temp a bit for the first layer to make sure it has solid adhesion (along with raising bed as suggested already).