3D Printing Discussions, Questions and Debugging

e3d says volcano is 3x volumetric flow of the v6, so 4.5mm^3/s should be okay for TPU?

Were anyone here was able to 3D print a wheel pulley that won’t wobble?

From my understating 3D printers are not able to print perfect circles as there are limitations to stepper
motors, and this affects how well the pulleys will turn out. This cause the belt to feel loose in certain
points and tight on others.

I use 3D printed pulleys and wheel hubs for pneumatics. I am not aware of any wobbling. Or maybe it’s just not noticeable at speeds of 40kmph.

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So temperature doesn’t seem like an issue for you. It only happens after you ahve run it for sometime. Is it heat creep? Do you have enough heater block cooling?

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Been using a pair of 3d printed pulleys for about 8 months now, hundreds of miles and still going strong

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yeah I have the same experience. with the right material and printed right, the printed stuff lasts very very long.

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I have never printed Nylon and want to play around with wheel hubs and gears. I’m good with ABS, PLA, PETG, and TPU, so looking for a recommendation on which spool of Nylon filment to try first. You mention Alloy 910 above, can you send me a link to what you would recommend?

im not an expert in nylon printing, but im on my second roll of 910 and that stuff is amazing. I print at 255, glustick on pei sheet (have garolite too, but it’s not needed), no chamber, zero fan.
but I use a direct drive with volcano hotted on a cr-10 so modified a bit.
0.2 layer hight, 0.5 layer width. I use creawsome mod as a base. and all the tuning that the youtube guy teaching tech advices. (linear advance, calibrate extruder, pid tune hotend, extrusion multiplier “flow” in Cura.
I would stick with taulmans nylon. heard good stuff about the bridge but that is softer than the 910 so for gears idk. taulman recommends 910 for gears.
tempted to try out polymakers CoPa next, as im normally drilling and taping my wheel pulleys and I think it can handle higher temps then the 910 which is a pain to to drill and tap.
anyone got experience with polymakers CoPa?

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Just search for the cheapest Taulman Alloy 910. The cheapest I found was on Amazon at $50 for 1kg.

Ok, so $50 for 1kg is a good baseline. I’m at twice that quickly looking at Amazon.de

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B016R73C0O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=Taulman+Alloy+910&qid=1571753191&sr=8-1-fkmr0

That option, from Amazon, has gone for me too. Now I have 0.5kg for $35 :cry:

I printed a motor pulley in nylon that worked for a few months. My wheel pulley was 3d print then made a silicone mold then poured resin (task-9) and is holding strong, haven’t torn a belt since either but part of that is probably running them at the right tension (not too much not too little)

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It sounds right math wise but always takes a little fudging with these things since so many variables changing over time in reality.

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Yeah, same here, but I still get wobbles. You won’t feel it when you ride, but when you
look on it - it just looks bad. You can see it here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQm0Gk291ZA

I am sure that I have enough heater block cooling. While I have a Gen. Titan, I am now using a Triangle Labs Aero clone and I used to use the standard genuine E3D heater block.

It took a long time to print before it blocked.

I’ll try again in the next couple of days at a higher temp… or maybe faster if it’s heat creep.

So Im going to Direct drive my 3d cr10s [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32922611810.html?storeId=1654223&spm=2114.12010612.8148356.18.3be56018c80W9M] Also going to buy blt touch with it maybe.
Not sure what design to go with,
[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Wqe5cSN0YP_VJ9aq2AHLdbNeF_549EJE?usp=sharing]
[ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3241793]
[ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3747412]
Help me choose please

Mine are flawless. CR10, PETG on a glass bed. 100% infill, very slow print speed for outter walls. 76c bed. Dont remove until cooled.

80 teeth HTD5 pulleys, created with openscad and fusion360.

I probably would not go direct drive on my cr 10, if I had to chose again. lots of fuckery is needed to get shit working properly.
I would go for a all metal hotted from micro Swiss or a v6 from e3d. and just get on with my life. the hours I have spent on piece of shit components and stupid/cheap upgrades is absurd. same shit goes for printers as with skateboards. buy cheap shit and you are often in for a headache.
that being said triangle labs from aliexpress is decent.

and I mean put your printer where your pet is not at and yank the printer up to 250 and you can print 910 just fine. maybe even get a Capricorn tube to make yourself feel a little better.

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I print mine with ABS. I’ll try PETG or even PLA just for testing. Maybe even will print on another printer I have. Can you share the pulley that you printed? Maybe the file I’m using is corrupted.

My abs pulleys werent the straightest, stuff loves to warp. PLA glass temp to low, the only downside of petg is the noise, belts are noisier running over it. My pulley is huge for a MTB. Heres where i got started.