Oh damn. Yeah I don’t have the skillset to design it yet, unfortunately.
Have a Fusion 360 course I bought that I still need to take.
Do you think it would be possible to make the inner dimensions of the battery enclosure in this one 135mm?
So uuh, i got a problem.
The G-Code G1 Z10 (or whatever Z Number) brings my Gantry down instead of up…??
I’m not sure why it does that. I let it home so it knows its XYZ Position but it still goes down.
My printer also started going down in position while moving which i don’t want.
i want it to Raise Z every time it moves somewhere. Raise Z after probing, move home, go down, draw the first line, Raise Z, move to the middle, go down and start printing, once the print is finished Raise Z and move out of the way.
Right now it either just moves to the side or lowers the gantry to the “print ready position” while moving there (which so far has knocked over a print, get it stuck and crushing the whole gantry and bed crooked.
hope this makes sense.
Can u set retraction in your slicer?
Define retraction? Filament retraction yes, but has nothing to do with my problem?
Z hop when retracted i thought was a setting
It is. The little gap z hop creates isn’t enough for the fast movement of the printer going to the left, “clearing” the printbed. It has to do something with the gcodes
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Are you calling that move while in absolute or incremental mode (G90 or G91)? Can you share your start G-code?
The gcodes are mostly stock from what i have used in the past. Only added g29 recently after installing the CRtouch and the G1 Z[xxx] had a different value because i played around with it before taking the screenshot. (It was g1 Z10 i believe
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So the machine is following the commands for the purge lines just fine, yeah?
Can you generate a gcode file with your attempted changes and send it to me?
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It does the strip before the actual print, yes but it doesn’t hop in Z while moving from the middle of the bed (to get a Z probe reading) back to do the actual strip. It also doesn’t move up in Z when going back to the middle to actually start the print.
Just to clarify, the print and everything works, i just want it to move in the Z height to clear the bed clamps and have a bit of clearance in general.
(Which it did in the past)
Try calling those hops as
G90 G0 Z10. That will make double-extra-sure the machine is in absolute mode, and that it will move fast.
You can also try opening a finished gcode file in a gcode viewer to see what that might tell you.
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I think i have figured a way out before trying your version.
I mainly used my old cura gcode from last year, duplicated a line and increased the height.
Not perfect, needs some tweaking.
This is the current state - start
End:
The only weird thing is how it jumps to the middle just before going up in height.
How it was before
Ohhhh, I know what your problem is.
You need to have your Z moves on a separate line from the XY moves, otherwise the printer will try to make a coordinated 3-axis move. Basically instead of going
z10
x100 y100 z0.2
which will make the printer go up, then diagonally sideways and also slant downwards in a single motion
you need it to be:
z10
x100 y100
z0.2
which breaks it into three steps:
go up
go sideways
go down
basically the printer will try to do all the moves on a single line at once, so it’s doing a slanted move from z10 to z0.2.
Either that or you can make the XY line just call out the same Z height rather than a lower one.
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ooooh ok.
so it could be like this if i want all 3 axis seperately
otherwise keep X and Y on the same line and just do 2x Z axis?
If you call the axes one at a time, the machine will move like an etch-a-sketch, one axis at a time with no diagonal lines.
Calling the x and y in the same line will cause the machine to move in a diagonal from point to point.
Either will work, you just have to be aware of that behavior to keep from accidentally crashing into things (more important on a milling machine or lathe than a 3d printer, but the principle is the same.)
Also rapid (g0) calls will make the machine move all affected axes at maximum speed, so you’ll get a “dog-leg” diagonal if it’s not a 45-degree move, where the axes will both move full speed (making a 45 degree path) until one reaches the commanded position, then it will move straight towards the other axis position.
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g0 for me is the same speed as G1 but that’s not a problem for me. My printer isn’t setup to be fast anyway.
I need to recompile the current firmware i have and edit the probing speed which is awfully slow at the moment.
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Apologies, if I had more time I would have written a shorter letter. I’m having some curling up of my PETG prints that I assume is poor adhesion but have one other idea too, looking for feedback on my troubleshooting so far
Setup: Ender 3, dual geared extruder, stock PEI build plate, hot end + everything else. Cleaned the bed each time, applied glue stick (Pritt brand, it’s the default name household name here), and leveled manually to the point it can just about squeeze a piece of card in against the friction. I should get feeler gauges. PETG at 240C nozzle, can double check but it’s either Rosa or Sunlu black standard enough stuff. Both prints used a 5mm brim, no raft, 50% infill, 5 perimeters, 3 solid top and bottom layers (I think). The part I’m working on is a basic 15mm riser, no cutouts, angle or any features at all really beyond a cuboid with some holes. Printed in the middle of the build plate.
It’s been a while since I printed anything so the first attempt had some very lifted edges, and was run at 72C bed temp because it was the settings I’d landed on the last time. Dimensional accuracy not good, the part is nearly around 15mm at its highest in the middle (14.9 ish) but all points on the perimeter were below 14. The corners were between 13.6 and 13.3mm and have a noticeable rock on a table. It also (like all my previous attempts at PETG + glue) took quite a bit of glue with it.
Attempt 2 bumped the bed temp up to 85C, saw some improvements but still a noticeable camber. I did some googling about glue stick application and realised I’d been applying it fairly thick and lumpy. I’ll replicate and get some pictures, didn’t think to document my old applications until it was already washed. Now no longer took much glue with it, and the lifting seems improved, but still there and now I think showing a small bit of drooping elephants foot?
So do I just keep increasing the bed temp? My other thought was that the cooling after a print rather than the temp during was the issue, differential cooling across the geometry of the part. I missed my alarm to come back and pull the print off immediately, but does that idea make sense? Would it make any sense to move the part to somewhere else on the bed in case some wonkiness of the surface is the issue?
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