Thingiverse was the defacto standard for years because it was owned and operated by Makerbot, but since their acquisition by Stratasys (IIRC), Thingiverse has been basically abandoned, with broken features and no updates.
Printables is run by Prusa, so it has an established userbase from Prusa customers, and it is actively being worked on and improved. It doesn’t have as much of a back catalog just because it’s newer, but that can change - They have an automatic import tool that will copy everything from an existing Thiniverse account to a new Printables account with very little effort on the part of the account holder. It’s just a matter of getting people to migrate.
Cool, prusa seem like a much more community focused crowd with the reprap ties and open source stuff. Have you used thangs much? I saw a couple of Collab/sponsor spots from maker YouTubers with them
+1 have abandoned thingiverse as the relic is it. Printables is the latest in a line of attempts to centralize (thangs, cults, wikifactory, myminifactory, etc), but I fully expect it to become the default. There is a ton of love for Prusa out there, they’re proven high quality, and the site design is quite nice (and familiar).
As it is out of stock literally everywhere… I have been thinking about 3D printing a replacement. But not just for that one part, but for all Ronin specialty parts that are wear items.
Pivot tubes, made out of poliurethane. Serves the purpose of the pivot cup in other skate trucks. Just out of curiosity, how badly would hard TPU fare here?
I am likely going to print a mold and pour some urethane, but that’s still a few months out.
The tube around the support pin is made of delrin (POM). It’s used to hold a steel part called queen pin / support pin, that can slightly move up and down in this tube. There is some side to side force too when turning, but it’s 90% supported by the truck. It’s there to reduce friction and wear probably. Can printed Nylon substitute that? Or maybe a hard TPU?
The bushings that get compressed and go into the support pin are likely PU, they are quite soft. Judging by hand maybe around 60-70A. It’s getting compressed in use. Would likely need to pour some urethane to get this right. But could a 3D printed one out of very soft TPU work for a while?
The support pin cups are quite hard, but not rock solid… There is a steel ball on the end of the support pin that pushes against it and can rotate inside it. What material should I use? Hard TPU?
Anything made of polyurethane could probably be done out of TPU without too much detriment.
The POM part would be best in something slippery and wear resistant like nylon. You can actually get POM filament, but I’ve heard that it is an absolute bastard to print in every possible way imaginable, and you need a very advanced printer setup to even try it.
Thanks! One more question, do you think that the softer PU part could be printed out of the same TPU as the hard ones, just with lower infill percentage?
I don’t have enough experience with the parts or printing TPU to make an intelligent judgement on that. I’d say try it, see if it works. If not, you could 3d print a mold and cast your own urethane.
My guess is that for durability, you are going to need all of these parts to be printed 100% solid. Dialing in the squishy-ness of your parts by adjusting walls/infill sounds like hell, and I cant see the hollow parts holding up very well.
I suggest you print everything solid, and use different durometer TPU/cast urethane if needed.
Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board, loaded 2.0.6 marlin firmware with bl/CR-touch support - all good.
Problem is that the cr-touch rarely wants to extend the probe - it gives off the 50% error aka might be stuck or trouble deploying. Homing Z also doesn’t work which i believe is normal since marlin blocks it out of security vause it doesn’t know where it is.
i think i have watched almost all videos regarding the CR-touch and mine is stuck on the very first step. Press auto home and let it home. It goes up 10mm (default) Homes X and Y in the middle, then throws off the red blinking error.
i managed to get to home Z twice but the cr-touch only probed once each time instead of two…
i’m kinda lost. I ordered a second one which should arrive saturday to see if mine is a lemon or not.
sometimes the printer spew STOPPED or home Z first etc, i found some posts and fixes for the latter one but only in regards of the BL-touch which uses a different connector.
Update:
Downgraded the firmware to 2.0.1, lost some features but the success rate was a bit higher.
Actually managed to do a proper auto bed leveling.
Still lots of red blinking but again, i assume it’s the unit itself.
I’m trying to a fit a 12s3p 21700 p42a in this enclosure, but the inner height needs to be at least 40mm( preferably 41).I believe the rest of the dimensions are fine.
Ooof, lots of curves. I wasn’t able to extend it without breaking the model or making Fusion crash. I’m not good enough with the surface workspace to break the model into pieces, stretch them, then make it whole again.
I think the easiest way might be to basically rebuild it from scratch but longer.
