Throw in a brim for extra adhesion.
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Update. Checked all pulleys and belts, they are tight. Bed is free to move in any direction. I just printed one ring in the center. It came out perfect. Going to print one more just to be sure. I am starting to think it is a gcode issue. When I place multiples of these on bed, the layer shift happens. I have had this printer for over a year now with no issues. This just started yesterday. Going to do more printing and report back.
thanks for the help.
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Double check your bed for flatness and level. If you’ve ruled out the actual motion system, then IMO it’s more likely to be a collision issue than a gcode issue.
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Double checked bed is level. With pulleys off the bed, it rolls without issue. So I printed a single ring two times, both came out perfect. Then went and tried two rings, layer shift happened. So I decide the rotate model 90 degrees, same layer shift. Attaching pictures. Not sure if this is related, but I had a nozzle clog this week. Ran a few prints until I finally realized it. Do you think it is possible the extruder motor working overtime because of the nozzle clog maybe ruined the motor? And some how ruined the y axis motor? At a lost right now. It has been printing perfect for a year now. Thanks.
I don’t believe an extruder motor fail would cause layer shifting because I assume they’re independent. You might see a difference in print quality from underextrusion for example, but not layer shifting. I think.
Your printer is misaligned somewhere… not square or something. Or one of your belts is skipping… or your z axis is falling. what kind of filament?
Belt slipping or stepper motor skipping for Y carriage. Very confident about that.
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I’m just gonna say it again, you’re overextruding that white. Your 5th photo shows it clearly. Turn flow down on the first few layers or on the machine itself while printing if you have a recent build of marlin.
This is from someone who is very familiar with layer shift.
It’s much less likely to happen on single item prints because it doesn’t have to move around, dragging the nozzle as much when moving between walls.
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got a roll of this (no idea where from or why)
Monumental Evolution - 1,75ø - 500gr Spool - Treed Filaments - 3D Filaments Manufacturer
anyone know what its made of or any reason i should or shouldnt use it
So I think you were right. I have only been using Hatchbox PLA. Ran out, so had to use TecBears PLA. I think it ooze’s more than the Hatchbox, so now I think that caused the nozzle to drag on the part and cause the layer shift. I switch back to Hatchbox this morning and now it prints prefect.
Thanks for all the suggestions and help from everyone.
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White filament is just the worst. It’s so variable batch to batch.
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Isn’t white filament also super abrasive even for PLA? I think you made a post about it. White and glow in the dark filaments right?
GITD is pretty abrasive. Dunno how it stacks up against fiber-reinforced filaments like CF-PLA, but I would expect significant wear after a couple kilos.
White, however, is really variable. It depends on what fillers/pigments are used, and how much.
You can get “white” slightly translucent/milky PLA by adding just a little bit of white pigment to “natural” almost-white material, and end up with something that is super ooze-prone due to the low filler content, or you can make “WHITE” PLA with a ton of pigment/filler, and yes, depending on the pigment used, some of them can be quite abrasive, like titanium dioxide.
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I saw you are trying to make detachable tool with magnets. I did this and now i found and modified lever action quick release. It looks promising and does not require magnets, single M4 bolt, nut and washer.
Very simple yet very effective.
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Wow I don’t know why but I actually read this just now and realized that would’ve been the solution to my problem. Sorry man
I sold the damn thing out of frustration 
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Yo a bit late to the party but I have had similar issues with my ultimaker back in the day… My problem was that one of the Y axis pulleys slipped at a specific place on my buildplate…
Check if belt tension is equally where ever you move the printhead
am trying to setup my the octoprint app called ‘octopod’ to view my printing remotely…has anyone used this app with their iphone? I can view the printer when on the network but cant work out how to set it so i can access the network remotely (which is the whole point). Have read that i have to ‘port-forward’ something something…any idiaz?
That’s awesome. What does it look like?
I didn’t proceed with mine because of other engagements and then I found this https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printermods/xchange-v10-hot-swap-tool-changing-for-every-3d-printer?ref=4knk82. This looks really awesome and price is not super bad either.
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I think I saw teaching tech make a video about it. It requires linear rails and I don’t know why kind of work that entails but hot swap capability is 
