3D Printing Discussions, Questions and Debugging

I’d try some of the following:

  • Reduce your travel speed
  • Increse your minimum layer time (slow down if layer time is less than X seconds)
  • Try 3 perimeters instead of 2

I’d also suggest trying any other slicer. Either stock Cura, S3d, or Prusaslicer/slic3r.

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Yeah it’s $40 for this version. But it kills in any of the v1 issues. Also, no bowden tubing at all needed. Works great. You can probably find it soon on ali or wherever soon for half the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08KP189KN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

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Could anyone possibly please slice a version of the puck puck bruce V7 for me w/ settings for polycarbonate (262 degrees C printing temp, 110 degree C build plate temp, and ~45mm/s print speed, ~80mm/s travel speed)? In form of a gcode file. Any other info required?

It’s for a stock Qidi-tech X-Max printer using the high temp extruder assembly. Please and thank you in advance if possible!

Oh, just a couple more things:

  • Print volume (X/Y dimensions),
  • Where the origin is,
  • Your exact measured filament diameter,
  • Your flow rate (if you’ve adjusted it),
  • Probably a couple other things I’ve missed

Honestly it would be way easier to get a working print if you do the slicing yourself, because of all the machine-specific settings and tweaks.

There’s a reason people share STL or other solid models around, not gcode. It’s just too closely tied to your exact setup.

Your model looks pretty good (except for that giant ugly hole of course), but I figured I should ask anyway.

Have you done all the usual due diligence setup/calibration steps for your printer/filament?

Can you post a picture of the sliced model in the slicer, so we can see what the slicer is expecting to happen?

Having layer shift issues. Not sure if you can tell from the pictures but the two outside holes are oval, they should be round. It was much worst before I tightened the belts. Now it is better but I am not sure what belt is affecting this layer shift, is it the x or y axis belt? Thanks

It’s whichever belt moves when the printer moves forward and back. (from the reference point of the photo).
Whether that’s X or Y (Or even Z! Like in the CR30) depends on the machine.

But basically if the layer shifts front-to-back, then it’s the belt that controls front-to-back movement that is causing the problem.

Thank you. just tightened both belts again and same thing happened. I get front to back layer shift on every layer right after the first layer. But when I just print one in the middle, it works fine. But when printing 5, the middle one gets a layer shift. could it be a bad gcode?

Possible, but kinda unlikely. My first guess would be a not-quite-flat-and-level bed causing collisions between the nozzle and the layers.

You could try turning on Z-hop to see if that fixes it.

Almost looks like something is stopping it from doin a full movement. Not an expert here, but a wire has gotten in the way before and that looks like the result I ended up with

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That too. You could try moving the offending axis by hand while the steppers are off, and see if you get full range of motion.

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Turn your flow down. White filaments are notorious for oozing due to the lack of colored pigment. Eventually the nozzle can drag too much on a move and be off.

Once a layer shift starts, it should be apparent on EVERY part in that print.

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Check any of the pulleys as well. I’ve had one loosen up and cause shifting. It seems to be only happening in one direction. Is there something obstructing the bed from moving to the back? Pinched cable, some filament spaghetti underneath?

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is that the technical term? :laughing:

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whenever i print overnight this happens

conspiracy theory is whenever i sit next to my printer for 4 hours making sure nothing goes wrong the print comes out perfect. whenever i leave it on its own i get spaghetti. it knows when i leave i…

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Calibrate the e steps for all stepper motors? Not usually needed, but might help.

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i get really weird values when i calculate my e-steps like 900
for some reason when my motor extrudes 100mm only like 20mm goes out

I haven’t had this happen for over a year. When that happens, you need to rethink your bed adhesion strategy. Glue stick, hair spray, oven just getting ready he nozzle closer to the bed.

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using abs and the only adhesion i got to work was slurry