The white base filament definitely pastel-izes it a lot. This filament was really glossy, I want to try a matte white next.
Translucent ought to be the best though.
That photo makes my layer line look terrible. The markers aren’t 100% consistent.
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Really cool! Are there any side effects of whatever’s in the ink getting heated in the hot end? I’m curious if it passes through easily, or requires purging before the next filament change.
No issues/noticeable differences so far. It’s gotta be dry by the time it hits the hotend with the long bowden setup.
I definitely put it on my least favorite machine just in case though 
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Brooooo! Katie and I were looking at that last night too! Looking for non toxic markers so we can do the toys with it! What did you find?
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Works pretty well but needs pressure on the markers for a better effect. Trying translucent filament out next!
Just using sharpies
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V8 on an esk8 forum? Blasphemy!
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HOW DARE YOU?!?
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I’ve had the Ender 3 Pro for a couple weeks now and ever since I first leveled the bed, it’s been printing flawlessly.
How important is autobed leveling really? I had it on my CR10S Pro and I thought it was cool, but is it super critical for print quality?
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I say nay.
Tight bed springs and not popping prints off the bed while hot and I don’t touch the knobs for months.
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It depends, but it’s usually a nice-to-have rather than a necessity.
If your bed is warped (not a flat plane) enough to prevent you from laying down a decent first layer, then mesh ABL can compensate for that and let you still print.
If your bed is flat though, once you get it aligned with the printer’s XY plane (AKA level), you can print just fine with no more tweaking.
That said, if/when I build my dream printer (a Jubilee), It is absolutely 1000% going to have ABL.
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This is pretty cool but think it’s really just advancement of the existing resin printing and has a lot of the same drawbacks I would guess. That said bring on the new shiney tech 
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And bring on shiny new price tags
But seriously seemed interesting
However I don’t understand half the words they said so in no position to comment
Basically all resin printers rely on special liquid goo resin that is something that will become a polymer if it’s stimulated by enough ultraviolet light (or other energy I imagine though I’m not a chemist). The existing resin printers like SL1 from Prusa:
SL1 was based on another companies design that Prusa bought out since the original company was having issues delivering but had a pretty close to workable design. These existing ones rely on a screen to provide the UV light typically (like a LCD from phone but with backlight that is normally just white LEDs with higher amplitude UV emitting light source)
Based on the logo and little designs they show on the XOLO site it looks like they are doing a similar thing with resin and UV curing but instead of an LCD it looks like they are using a laser to get much more concentrated light energy, my guess is it uses a combination of light beams going through the resin so at the intersection there is a high concentration of UV to solidify the resin.
It’s cool but still means you have to deal with resin which ends up being expensive and having a lot of waste and is generally more dangerous to work with for amateurs. Also there are extra cleanup/finishing processes that result in some dirty liquids etc.
There is a company called Carbon3D that did a TED talk demo a few years back now that was pretty impressive as well showing how this type of thing can be accelerated but there’s always some trade offs.
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Thanks for the explanation
Gonna find that ted talk on YouTube
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Yeah Carbon3D has a great product. Their printer uses CLIP printing technology and they were able to get some pretty impressive print times.
Resin is always risky but think of the possibilities for an application of the XOLO in a dentist office for example. In this application you’d likely have a trained professional that runs the machine. You could have the patient’s mouth 3D scanned and print a model of it to show them invisalign options in the same appointment.
Looking at the anticipated materials, this printer seems to have something different than some others. Soft gels up to tough urethanes. Very interesting.
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Basically they’re taking the “2d” (layer by layer) part out of a resin printer, and replacing it with a 3d (volume by volume) system with intersecting light beams. Kind of like how those 3d sculptures in a block of crystal are made.
It means you won’t have warping/adhesion issues peeling the print off the screen each layer, and possibly faster print times because it doesn’t have to retract each time a layer is done.
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Hey all, trying to print the puck puck bruce hoyt st mod on my Qidi X-max 3d printer which has been working solid up until now. Here is the result of the final product… happened twice in a row. Using PolyCarnonate:
WhichI have used plenty of times up to now - including on several successful gt2b mods. Anyone have any recommendations on some settings I could tweak to get the top part to finish properly. Here are some relevant settings, let me know I can provide anything else that may help.
Material: PC
Config layer height (resolution): 0.08mm (given me best results before albeit much more time.
Infill: 80%
Add Support: Checked
Extruder:
Enable Retraction: Checked
Retraction Distance: 1.5mm
Retraction Speed: 30mm/s
Enable costing: Unchecked
Laye:
Layer Height: 0.08mm
Line Width: 0.4mm
Wall Line Count: 2
Top Layers: 5
Bottom Layers: 3
Print thin walls: Unchecked
Infill:
Infill Density: 80%
Infill pattern: Zig-zag
Additions: Z-seam allignment: Shortest
Print in advance: Checked
Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt
Skirt Line Count: 2
Skirt Disance: 4mm
Speeds: Print Speed: 45mm/s
Travel Speed: 100mm/s
Speed overrides: Unchecked
Temperatures:
Printing Temperature: 257 degrees C.
Let me know any other pertinent info needed. Thanks in advance, Had many msany other more complicated PC prints up until now, so not sure what the deal is… it gets so close!
Thanks much!
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That’s a bummer. I use the same exact filament for mine and it came out perfect. Can’t seem to find it to be able to show you.
Just looks like your supports kinda suck underneath there. What slicer do you use?
Qidi’s closed source slicer which is just a reskinned version of cura