Enclosures + 66t and 72t pulleys for pneumatics
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that’s great. The sort of things I’ll want to print.
I’ll take a look 
Just bought a cr10s pro v2 and a Titan aero with Capricorn tubing
What other upgrades are recommended as I only want to upgrade once
Also what firmware do people recommend
Thanks
Ask us about upgrades only after you have spent some time getting used to it first. Just buying upgrades won’t do you any good.
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What all metal hotend is the easiest to upgrade to?
I don’t like messing with firmware so would like to do that as little as possible
Cr10 pro v2 is my printer
Don’t mind either direct drive or all metal hotend
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Ok thanks for the link, tho seems expensive to me : you need an all metal hot end + all metal heatbreak to raise temperature, mainly. High heat nozzle too. Next you need a temp sensor powerful enough and good isolation between the hot areas and the rest of the machine.
Insane for sure but just a V6 Volcano block + metal heatbreak will ensure you can print any material used for esk8. No need to go above 260°c for quality Nylon for example and no need either to go above 280-285°c for polycarbonate.
Note that over heating filaments above their ratings won’t do any good either (you’ll just burn them).
The only time when 500°c upgrade would be useful is for printing stuff like Teflon filament, and I’m not sure any consumer grade printer has the ability to properly print this level of material. It’d be a call for trials and errors and possibly repairs before getting the correct setting.
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Both are not contradictory and you might seek direct drive if possible just because it tremendously helps for printing flexible TPU.
Flashing Marlin will be required anyway.
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K thanks man
I realise the 500c is not for me but in theory for someone who needs… seems quite cool
Which direct drive do you recommend?
the cr-10s pro v2 is a great printer, but not the most popular, and it shares most of its design w/ the cr-10s pro v1, not any of the other cr-10 models. So mod support isn’t the greatest. Bondtech makes a great dd conversion, otherwise I’d grab a bmg clone and try to find a print kit for the cr-10s pro v2 and your hot end of choice.
I’d also print a bunch of things on the stock machine first because there’s a non-zero chance it will never print anything ever again after you mod it.
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Thanks man
That’s the reason I want the easiest direct drive upgrade
Was looking into the Titan aero but will check about bondtech
Receiving the printer on Tuesday and I will have to build it then
k thanks
but are there anything you should always do in order not to break it
for example someone i saw online talked about anti backlash nuts
Are you currently having issues though?
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The stock printer will be fine given correct assembly. I’ve literally changed nothing hardware wise on my used Ender 3 since I got it over a year ago, and it still makes nice strong prints. No nozzle changes, no capricorn tubing, no nothing. It holds its level on the stock springs for months at a time, and the only thing I need to do to prep the bed is to wipe it with isopropyl. The only thing I did was flash Marlin on it for the thermal runaway protection since it was an older version of the Ender, which had no effect on prints.
I wouldn’t bother with upgrades unless you’re having issues with the part itself (most of the time it’s just poor assembly, not the part that’s broken), or the current printer lacks capabilities you need (direct drive for TPU or flexy filaments, silent board for quieter operation). The stock hardware is good for 90% of what you need it to do.
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K thanks a lot will leave it alone then
Already ordered the Titan aero kit so gonna get that and probably will fit it
Thanks
If I were you, I would cancel the titan aero kit.
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Will try… but they said order was already packed
Just so you have to read this again because it’s so true.
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52kg of abs ordered for £100